T\u00fcrk tarihinin en \u00f6nemli co\u011frafyalar\u0131ndan biri olan Altaylar ve Saha Yeri\/Yakutistan, hem tarih \u00f6ncesi d\u00f6nemlerden itibaren insan ya\u015fam\u0131na tan\u0131kl\u0131k etmi\u015f, hem de T\u00fcrk mitolojisi ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel haf\u0131zas\u0131n\u0131n \u015fekillenmesinde b\u00fcy\u00fck rol oynam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Altaylar, T\u00fcrklerin t\u00fcreyi\u015f efsanelerine mek\u00e2n olmu\u015f; Yakutistan ise eski inan\u00e7 sistemlerini g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze ta\u015f\u0131yan Saha T\u00fcrklerinin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 b\u00f6lge olarak dikkat \u00e7ekmektedir.<\/p>\n
2025 yaz\u0131nda \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m bu yolculuk, yaln\u0131zca bir seyahat de\u011fildi. Bir milletin k\u00f6klerini, efsanelerini ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel miras\u0131n\u0131 yerinde g\u00f6rmek, binlerce y\u0131l \u00f6ncesinden bug\u00fcne uzanan bir k\u00f6pr\u00fcn\u00fcn \u00fczerinde y\u00fcr\u00fcmekti. Yol beni Altaylar\u0131n yemye\u015fil vadilerinden, SahaYeri\/Yakutistan\u2019\u0131n beyaz gecelerine ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131. Bu makalede, hem g\u00f6zlemlerimi hem de bu co\u011frafyalar\u0131n bize b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131 tarihi ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel izleri payla\u015fmak istiyorum.<\/p>\n
Gezi kapsam\u0131nda ziyaret etti\u011fim do\u011fal ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel mek\u00e2nlar, T\u00fcrk tarih ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcnde \u00f6nemli yeri olan kurganlar, kaya resimleri, halk inan\u0131\u015flar\u0131 ve \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f rit\u00fcelleri payla\u015faca\u011f\u0131m sizlerle. Makale ile Altay ve Saha yeri\/Yakut co\u011frafyalar\u0131n\u0131n T\u00fcrk k\u00fclt\u00fcr tarihinde ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 anlam\u0131, hem arkeolojik ve etnografik veriler hem de g\u00fcncel saha g\u00f6zlemlerim \u00fczerinden ortaya koymay\u0131 ama\u00e7l\u0131yorum. G\u00f6rd\u00fcklerim ve bulgular, bu b\u00f6lgelerin T\u00fcrklerin kolektif haf\u0131zas\u0131nda \u201ck\u00f6k \u00fclke\u201d niteli\u011fi ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6steriyor.<\/p>\n
Gezi s\u00fcresince ziyaret etti\u011fim mek\u00e2nlar, T\u00fcrk k\u00fclt\u00fcr tarihi a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00f6nem arz eden arkeolojik alanlar (Paz\u0131r\u0131k Kurganlar\u0131, Kalbakta\u015f ve \u00c7uyooz\u0131 kaya resimleri vb.), halk inan\u0131\u015flar\u0131 (Telengitler, Ergenekon efsanesi) ve \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f rit\u00fceller (Is\u0131ah Bayram\u0131) makalemin konusu.<\/p>\n
Makalede, T\u00fcrklerin tarihsel haf\u0131zas\u0131nda \u00f6nemli yer tutan bu b\u00f6lgelerin, hem somut k\u00fclt\u00fcrel miras (kurganlar, balballar, kaya resimleri) hem de somut olmayan k\u00fclt\u00fcrel miras (efsaneler, t\u00f6renler, halk inan\u00e7lar\u0131) a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczdeki yans\u0131malar\u0131n\u0131 ele alaca\u011f\u0131m.<\/p>\n
Bu makale , 18 Haziran \u2013 2 Temmuz 2025 tarihleri aras\u0131nda Altay Cumhuriyeti ve Yakutistan\u2019da (Saha Yeri) ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirdi\u011fim k\u00fclt\u00fcr gezisinin g\u00f6zlem notlar\u0131na dayan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
U\u00e7ak \u0130stanbul havaliman\u0131ndan havalan\u0131rken i\u00e7imde tatl\u0131 bir heyecan vard\u0131. Altay Da\u011flar\u0131 ve Yakutistan\u2026 \u00c7ocuklu\u011fumdan beri kitaplardan, destanlardan tan\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131m topraklara gidiyordum.<\/p>\n
Yakla\u015f\u0131k be\u015f bu\u00e7uk saatlik yolculuktan sonra Rusya\u2019n\u0131n Novosibirsk havaalan\u0131na vard\u0131k.<\/p>\n
450 kilometrelik bir kara yolculu\u011fu bizi bekliyordu. Gece boyu yol ald\u0131k, sabah oldu\u011funda Altay Cumhuriyeti\u2019nin ba\u015fkenti Gorno Altay\u2019\u0131n sisli da\u011flar\u0131yla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131k.<\/p>\n
\u015eehre var\u0131r varmaz hayat\u0131n yava\u015f ve sakin ritmini hissettik. Otelde k\u0131sa bir dinlenmenin ard\u0131ndan Altay Cumhuriyeti M\u00fczesi\u2019ni gezdik. Rehberimiz Mergen Bey\u2019in ve Katia Han\u0131m\u2019\u0131n anlatt\u0131klar\u0131yla ta\u015flar\u0131n, heykellerin dili a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131 sanki.<\/p>\n
M\u00fczede g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz arkeolojik eserler, ta\u015f heykeller ve geleneksel e\u015fyalar Altay tarihinin zenginli\u011fini yans\u0131t\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n
Yola koyulduk. Yolumuz, \u201cd\u00fcnyan\u0131n en g\u00fczel 10 yolu\u201dndan biri say\u0131lan Novosibirsk\u2013Mo\u011folistan g\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131ndayd\u0131.<\/p>\n
Altaylar\u0131n yemye\u015fil da\u011flar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Katun Nehri bize rehberlik etti. 688 kilometrelik bir su yolu, kad\u0131n ad\u0131yla an\u0131lan kudretli bir nehir. Bu nehir, adeta kad\u0131n ruhu gibi co\u015fkulu ve zarifti.<\/p>\n
Altaylar\u0131n 2 b\u00fcy\u00fck nehri Kad\u0131n(Rus\u00e7as\u0131 Kathun) ve \u00c7uy (Rus\u00e7as\u0131 \u00c7uye) nehirlerinin birle\u015fti\u011fi yerde durduk. Kad\u0131n Nehri 3 S\u00fcmer(Rus\u00e7as\u0131 Beluha) da\u011flar\u0131ndan do\u011fuyor b\u00fct\u00fcn Altaylar\u0131 688 km ge\u00e7erek Bisk \u015fehrine kadar ak\u0131yor. \u00c7uy Nehri ise 3 S\u00fcmer da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n arkas\u0131ndaki da\u011flardan do\u011fuyor 350 km sonra Kad\u0131n Nehri ile birle\u015fiyor.<\/p>\n
Bu birle\u015fim noktas\u0131 yaln\u0131zca co\u011frafi bir kesi\u015fme de\u011fil; ayn\u0131 zamanda T\u00fcrk efsanelerinin ve halk inan\u0131\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n da merkezi. Bu nehirlerin birle\u015fim noktas\u0131, rafting sporu i\u00e7in oldu\u011fu kadar halk inan\u0131\u015flar\u0131 i\u00e7in de \u00f6nemli. Burada nehre b\u0131rak\u0131lan bir \u00e7ocu\u011fun kurt taraf\u0131ndan kurtar\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131na ve Altay\u2019a on evlatla d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcne dair anlat\u0131lar, T\u00fcrk t\u00fcreyi\u015f destanlar\u0131yla birebir \u00f6rt\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n
Bizim T\u00fcrkiye T\u00fcrklerinin T\u00fcreyi\u015f destan\u0131 olarak bildi\u011fimiz destana Altay T\u00fcrkleri A\u015fina \u00c7ocuk destan\u0131 diyorlar. Altay T\u00fcrkleri, destanda ge\u00e7en Bozkurt’un \u00e7ocu\u011fu emzirdi\u011fi ma\u011faran\u0131n Aykulak da\u011flar\u0131nda (Rus\u00e7a Aykulaksi Xrebed) oldu\u011funa inan\u0131yorlar. Rehberimiz Mergen Bey, Aykulak da\u011flar\u0131nda bu ma\u011faran\u0131n oldu\u011fu b\u00f6lgenin milli park olarak d\u00fczenlenecek projenin yak\u0131nda ba\u015flayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yledi.<\/p>\n
Sonraki dura\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Onguday b\u00f6lgesiydi.<\/p>\n
Onguday B\u00f6lgesi’nde \u00c7uyooz\u0131 kaya resimlerini gezdik. Bronz \u00e7a\u011f\u0131nda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olan resimler \u0130skitler, Hunlar ve G\u00f6kt\u00fcrklere ait.<\/p>\n
Onguday B\u00f6lgesi’nde ki Kalbakta\u015f kaya resimleri ve Runik harfleri ile yaz\u0131lar\u0131n yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 kayalar\u0131 da gezdik. B\u00f6lgedeki 5 bin eserden 3720’si okunmu\u015f ve kay\u0131t alt\u0131na al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f. Bu yaz\u0131 ve resimler neolit d\u00f6nemden ba\u015fl\u0131yor \u0130skitler, Hunlar ve G\u00f6kt\u00fcrkler ile devam ediyor.<\/p>\n
Kalbakta\u015f\u2019ta runik yaz\u0131lar da g\u00f6rd\u00fck. T\u00fcrk runik harflerinin en erken \u00f6rnekleriydi bunlar. Bu ta\u015flara kaz\u0131nan fig\u00fcrler ve harfler, T\u00fcrklerin tarih sahnesine \u00e7\u0131kmadan \u00e7ok \u00f6nce de bu topraklarda var oldu\u011funun kan\u0131t\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n
Onguday b\u00f6lgesindeki \u015e\u0131rlak \u015eelalesi’ni de g\u00f6rd\u00fck. 1700’l\u00fc y\u0131llarda \u00c7in sald\u0131r\u0131lar\u0131nda \u00c7in’e esir d\u00fc\u015fmek istemeyen Altay T\u00fcrk’\u00fc bir k\u0131z\u0131n kendisini bu \u015felaleden att\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00f6yleniyor. Bu sebeple \u015felalenin bir di\u011fer ad\u0131 da \u2018K\u0131z\u0131n G\u00f6zya\u015f\u0131\u2019. Bu anlat\u0131, Altay halklar\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck ve onur anlay\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131 yans\u0131t\u0131yor. Her do\u011fa unsurunun bir efsane ile i\u00e7 i\u00e7e ge\u00e7ti\u011fini g\u00f6rmek, Altay mitolojisinin ne kadar zengin oldu\u011funu bir kez daha g\u00f6sterdi.<\/p>\n
Kur Ke\u00e7u ge\u00e7itinde Kad\u0131n Nehri’nin \u0130lg\u00fcmen Nehri ile birle\u015fti\u011fi noktada mola verdik. Buras\u0131 Kad\u0131n Nehri’nin en \u00e7o\u015fkun ve dalgal\u0131 oldu\u011fu ve rafting severlerin tercih etti\u011fi en zor parkur.<\/p>\n
Kur Ke\u00e7u ge\u00e7itinden Kurt\u00e7egen k\u00f6y\u00fc yak\u0131n\u0131nda Hunlara ait \u00dczengi Kurgan\u0131 ve balballar\u0131na gittik.<\/p>\n
Akta\u015f b\u00f6lgesi Kuray k\u00f6y\u00fc yak\u0131n\u0131ndaki Akduru da\u011flar\u0131 ve Kayzer g\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fc ziyaret ettik.. Bir deprem sonucu olu\u015fan g\u00f6l e\u015fsiz bir manzara olu\u015fturmu\u015f. G\u00f6le bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda sanki bir Ebru tuvaliydi. Alttan su kabarc\u0131klar\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k\u00e7a g\u00f6l y\u00fczeyindeki manzara de\u011fi\u015fiyor.<\/p>\n
Altay Cumhuriyeti gezimizde daha \u00e7ok Kazak T\u00fcrklerinin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Ko\u015fa\u011fa\u00e7 k\u00f6y\u00fcnde mola verdik k\u0131m\u0131z ald\u0131k. Kazak T\u00fcrkleri ile sohbet ettik.<\/p>\n
Altay Cumhuriyeti gezimizde bir T\u00fcrk boyu olan Telengitlerin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Mo\u011folistan s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131na 30 km mesafedeki k\u00f6yleri Kokor\u00f6’y\u00fc ziyaret ettik, m\u00fczelerini gezdik. Kokor\u00f6 k\u00f6y\u00fcne ad\u0131m att\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda adeta tarihin i\u00e7inde y\u00fcr\u00fcrken kendi \u00f6z karde\u015flerimizle bulu\u015fmu\u015f gibiydik. Mars y\u00fczeyine benzeyen k\u0131z\u0131l topraklar\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce \u015fa\u015fk\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z daha da artt\u0131. K\u00f6ydeki mezar ta\u015flar\u0131n\u0131 ilk okuyan T\u00fcrkologlar\u0131n aras\u0131nda T\u00fcrk ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131lar da vard\u0131. Bu da bize, ilim yoluyla kurulan k\u00fclt\u00fcrel k\u00f6pr\u00fclerin ne kadar \u00f6nemli oldu\u011funu g\u00f6sterdi.<\/p>\n
Altay Cumhuriyeti’nde 2.400 Rusya genelinde 15 bin Telengit ya\u015f\u0131yor. Telengitler, hem Altay T\u00fcrk\u00e7esi hem Rus\u00e7a konu\u015fuyorlar. Telengit k\u00f6ylerinde g\u00f6zlenen inan\u00e7 ve rit\u00fceller, eski T\u00fcrk inan\u00e7 sisteminin ya\u015fayan \u00f6rnekleridir.<\/p>\n
Soylar\u0131 yokolma tehlikesi ya\u015fayan Telengitlerin Amerika’da ya\u015fayan Tilingedler ile ayn\u0131 boydan olduklar\u0131n\u0131 bilim adamlar\u0131 belirtiyorlar.<\/p>\n
Akta\u015f \u015fehrinde Turbazalarda (T\u00fcrkiye\u2019deki bungalovlara benziyor ama tamamen tahtadan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f) konaklad\u0131k. Altay da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n havas\u0131n\u0131 soluyarak, \u00e7a\u011flayarak akan nehrin \u015far\u0131lt\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 dinleyerek Kazak T\u00fcrklerinin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Ko\u015fa\u011fa\u00e7 k\u00f6y\u00fcnden ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z k\u0131m\u0131zlar\u0131 ate\u015f ba\u015f\u0131nda i\u00e7erken y\u00fcksek sesle gen\u00e7ken bizi \u00e7o\u015fturan mar\u015flar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 s\u00f6yledik.<\/p>\n
Onguday b\u00f6lgesindeki son ziyaretimiz \u0130skit d\u00f6neminden kalma \u00f6nemli buluntular aras\u0131nda yer alan \u0130nya k\u00f6y\u00fcndeki balballar ile kurganlar idi.<\/p>\n
Buradan Ulagan b\u00f6lgesine ge\u00e7tik.<\/p>\n
Ulagan b\u00f6lgesindeki Gec\u00fcl\u00fc G\u00f6l\u2019e(Yeleli G\u00f6l) gittik. Buradaki efsaneye g\u00f6re de bir \u00e7oban at\u0131yla 50 km \u00f6tedeki \u00c7arsundug\u00f6l’e d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor. At\u0131n yelesi ise Gec\u00fcl\u00fc g\u00f6lden \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Altay Cumhuriyeti\u2019ndeki en \u00f6nemli ge\u00e7itlerden birisi Ulagan b\u00f6lgesinin Ke\u00e7i Ge\u00e7idi. Burada durdu\u011fumuzda sanki da\u011flarda bir yerlerden atalar\u0131m\u0131z bizleri izliyor hissine kap\u0131l\u0131yorsunuz.<\/p>\n
Altay Cumhuriyeti\u2019ndeki \u00f6nemli ge\u00e7itlerden birisi de Ulagan ge\u00e7idi. Ula\u011fan ge\u00e7idinin en y\u00fcksek yeri kutsal say\u0131lan bir b\u00f6lge. Altay T\u00fcrkleri burada dua ediyor, dileklerde bulunuyor, a\u011fa\u00e7lara bezler ba\u011fl\u0131yor ve ta\u015flar\u0131 \u00fcst \u00fcste koyuyorlar. Altay T\u00fcrkleri y\u00fcksek yerlerde ruhlar\u0131n ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131na inan\u0131yorlar.. Y\u00fcksek yerler G\u00f6k y\u00fcz\u00fcne yak\u0131n oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in kutsal say\u0131l\u0131yor.. \u015eark\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131nmas\u0131, y\u00fcksek sesle konu\u015fulmas\u0131 ruhlar\u0131 incitiyor gerek\u00e7esiyle yasak. Dilek tutulurken ta\u015flar\u0131n \u00fcst \u00fcste konuldu\u011funu g\u00f6r\u00fcnce bizim Anadolu\u2019da kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u2018 ta\u015f ta\u015f \u00fcst\u00fcne koymak\u2019 tabirini buradan ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131za emin oldum. Ben de sessizce ta\u015flar\u0131m\u0131 dikerek dileklerimi tuttum.<\/p>\n
Altay Cumhuriyeti Ulagan \u015fehrinde ya\u015fayanlar\u0131n %90’\u0131 bir T\u00fcrk boyu olan T\u00f6l\u00f6stler, %10\u2019u da Altay T\u00fcrkleri.<\/p>\n
Bir sonraki dura\u011f\u0131m\u0131z T\u00fcrk k\u00fclt\u00fcr tarihini de\u011fi\u015ftiren Paz\u0131r\u0131k Kurgan\u0131\u2019n\u0131n da bulundu\u011fu Ulagan b\u00f6lgesi Bal\u0131ktuyul k\u00f6y\u00fcyd\u00fc. T\u00fcrk k\u00fclt\u00fcr tarihi a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan en \u00f6nemli duraklardan biridir bu k\u00f6y.<\/p>\n
Bu k\u00f6y\u00fcn \u00f6nemi Altaylar\u0131n en \u00f6nemli arkeolojik alanlar\u0131ndan biri olan Paz\u0131r\u0131k Kurganlar\u0131\u2019n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu b\u00f6lge olmas\u0131d\u0131r. Paz\u0131r\u0131k Kurganlar\u0131, Altay T\u00fcrklerinin arkeolojik a\u00e7\u0131dan en \u00f6nemli miraslar\u0131ndan biridir.<\/p>\n
Bal\u0131ktuyul K\u00f6y\u00fc\u2019nde i\u00e7inde Paz\u0131r\u0131k\u2019\u0131n da yerald\u0131\u011f\u0131 kurganlar\u0131 gezdik. Paz\u0131r\u0131k kurganlar\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lan hal\u0131, araba vb biz T\u00fcrklerin insanl\u0131\u011fa neler kazand\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n \u00f6rnekleri. 5. kurganda bulunan \u00fcnl\u00fc Paz\u0131r\u0131k hal\u0131s\u0131, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en eski hal\u0131s\u0131 olarak biliniyor. Kurganlarda at iskeletleri, arabalar, g\u00fcnl\u00fck ya\u015fam e\u015fyalar\u0131 ve mumyalar bulundu. Bu buluntular, \u0130skit-T\u00fcrk k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn zenginli\u011fini ve sanat anlay\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6zler \u00f6n\u00fcne seriyor. Paz\u0131r\u0131k hal\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n dokundu\u011fu topraklarda durmak, T\u00fcrk tarihine dokunmak gibiydi.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Nihayet merakla g\u00f6rmek istedi\u011fimiz,destanlar\u0131n\u0131 okudu\u011fumuz Altay Cumhuriyeti gezimizin en \u00f6nemli dura\u011f\u0131 Katuyaruk ge\u00e7idine ula\u015ft\u0131k. \u0130\u015fte o an, destanlar\u0131n ger\u00e7e\u011fe d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fc yerdeydik.<\/p>\n
Katuyaruk Ge\u00e7idi\u2019nden k\u0131vr\u0131la k\u0131vr\u0131la inerken i\u00e7imizden demir da\u011flar\u0131n eridi\u011fini hayal ettik.<\/p>\n
Altay T\u00fcrkleri Ergenekondan \u00e7\u0131kan T\u00fcrklerin \u00c7olu\u015fman Vadisini ge\u00e7erek KatuYaruk\u2019da demir da\u011f\u0131 eritip \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131klar\u0131na inan\u0131yorlar.<\/p>\n
Ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131lar, Ergenekon destan\u0131nda T\u00fcrklerin yerle\u015fip \u00e7o\u011fald\u0131klar\u0131 yerin Kazakistan’\u0131n kuzeyinde ki Katon Karagay’\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndaki \u015eingiztau da\u011f\u0131 oldu\u011fu konusunda hemfikirler. Bizim Ergenekon olarak adland\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bu yerden \u00e7\u0131kan T\u00fcrkler \u00c7olu\u015fman vadisini kullanarak \u00c7in’e gitmek i\u00e7in yola \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yorlar. Bir yere gelince vadinin da\u011f ile kapal\u0131 oldu\u011funu g\u00f6r\u00fcyorlar. Bir Bozkurt onlara yol g\u00f6steriyor. T\u00fcrkler Bozkurt’un ge\u00e7ti\u011fi da\u011f\u0131n demir madeni oldu\u011funu g\u00f6r\u00fcyorlar ve demir da\u011f\u0131 eriterek kendilerine yol a\u00e7\u0131yorlar. \u0130\u015fte, demir da\u011f\u0131n eritilip ge\u00e7it yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 G\u00fcney Sibirya’da Altay Cumhuriyeti s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7indeki Katuyaruk ge\u00e7idi bir co\u011frafyan\u0131n destanla nas\u0131l b\u00fct\u00fcnle\u015fti\u011fini g\u00f6steriyor.<\/p>\n
Burada olmak destanlarda okudu\u011fumuz atalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n ge\u00e7ti\u011fi yerlerde gezerek, ayn\u0131 topra\u011fa ayak basman\u0131n verdi\u011fi hazz\u0131 (asl\u0131nda ya\u015fanmas\u0131 gerekir) size kelimelerle anlatmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fay\u0131m:<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrklerin Ergenekon’dan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p \u00c7olu\u015fman vadisini kullanarak \u00c7in’e ula\u015ft\u0131klar\u0131 vadide bulunan \u00c7olu\u015fman Nehri’nde y\u00fczd\u00fcm.<\/p>\n
Atalar\u0131m\u0131n y\u00fczd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, \u015fu i\u00e7ti\u011fi, atlar\u0131n\u0131 sulad\u0131klar\u0131, y\u0131kand\u0131klar\u0131 bu nehirde y\u00fczmek, E\u011fe’de Akdeniz’de y\u00fczmeye benzemiyor.. Burada ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m haz bamba\u015fka.<\/p>\n
Atalar\u0131m\u0131n ge\u00e7ti\u011fi \u00c7olu\u015fman Vadisi’nde y\u00fcr\u00fcmek de bana nasip oldu. Atalar\u0131m\u0131n ayak seslerini hissederek y\u00fcr\u00fcmenin heyecan\u0131n\u0131 size anlatamam.<\/p>\n
\u00c7olu\u015fman Vadisi’nde Altay ya\u011fmurlar\u0131nda \u00e7immek, evet o da nasip oldu..<\/p>\n
\u00c7olu\u015fman Vadisi’nde atalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n binlerce y\u0131l at ko\u015fturduklar\u0131, d\u00fcnyaya yay\u0131ld\u0131klar\u0131 topraklarda da nal seslerini duyarak at ko\u015fturdum.<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrklerin Ergenekon’dan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p \u00c7olu\u015fman vadisini kullanarak \u00c7in’e ula\u015ft\u0131klar\u0131 vadide bulunan \u00c7olu\u015fman Nehri’nde ak\u015fam k\u0131m\u0131z i\u00e7erken, bir yerlerde atalar\u0131m\u0131n binlerce kilometre uzaklardan gelip kendilerini and\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131 g\u00f6rerek benimle gurur duyduklar\u0131n\u0131 hissettim.<\/p>\n
\u00c7olu\u015fman Vadisi\u2019nde geceyi ge\u00e7irdi\u011fimde, bu destanlar\u0131n ger\u00e7ekli\u011fini adeta ruhumda hissettim.<\/p>\n
\u00c7olu\u015fman vadisinde konaklad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yerden yakla\u015f\u0131k bir bu\u00e7uk saatlik zor bir ta\u015f ve patikadan y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Ak Korum vadisindeki Mantar Kayalar’\u0131n g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fc de muhte\u015femdi.<\/p>\n
Mantar Kayalar\u0131 g\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z da\u011flardan \u00c7olu\u015fman vadisi bir ba\u015fka g\u00fczellikte g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n
Altay Cumhuriyeti k\u00fclt\u00fcr gezimizin, \u00c7olu\u015fman Vadisi’nde konaklad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Turbaza’daki b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc Altay’\u0131n me\u015fhur sanat\u00e7\u0131s\u0131 Mergen Teldenov\u2019un Altay m\u00fcziklerinden \u00f6rnekler sundu\u011fu bir konser ile noktalad\u0131k. Mergen Teldenov biz ziyaret\u00e7ilerden bir orkestra olu\u015fturdu. Melodiye ayak uydurabildi\u011fimizi san\u0131yorum.<\/p>\n
O gece t\u00fcrk\u00fclerle, k\u0131m\u0131zla ve karde\u015flik duygular\u0131yla Katuyaruk\u2019a vedala\u015ft\u0131k ve Gorno Altay\u2019a yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k.<\/p>\n
Ankara’da tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m, konferanslar\u0131n\u0131 dinledi\u011fim ve tan\u0131\u015fma f\u0131rsat\u0131 buldu\u011fum Filolo\u011f, T\u00fcrkolog, Altay halk bilimleri uzman\u0131 Nadezhda Tydykova(Nadya T\u0131d\u0131kova) ile Altay Cumhuriyeti’nin ba\u015fkenti Gorni Altay’da tekrar g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck.<\/p>\n
Nadya Han\u0131m Hasta hali ile evden \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p bizimle bulu\u015ftu. Hasta haliyle gelmi\u015fti ama g\u00f6zlerinde Altay sevgisi parl\u0131yordu. Onun \u201cAltay-Rus\u00e7a s\u00f6zl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc\u201dnden, y\u0131llarca yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalardan bahsetti\u011fini dinlemek, geziye ayr\u0131 bir anlam katt\u0131.<\/p>\n
Nadya han\u0131ma ve Altay\u2019a veda ederek G\u00fcney Sibirya’dan(Altay Cumhuriyeti’nden) 8 saat karayolu, 4 saat u\u00e7ak yolculu\u011fu ile Kuzey Sibirya’ya (Saha Yeri, Yakutistan) ula\u015ft\u0131k.<\/p>\n
K\u0131\u015f\u0131n eksi 60 Yaz\u0131n art\u0131 40 derece s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131n ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 Yakuts \u015fehri bizi ya\u011fmurla kar\u015f\u0131lad\u0131. Yakutlar eksi 15\u2019i g\u00f6rd\u00fcklerinde yaz geldi diyorlarm\u0131\u015f. Bu \u015fehir, k\u0131\u015f\u0131n d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en so\u011fuk ba\u015fkentlerinden biri; yaz\u0131n ise \u201cbeyaz geceler\u201d diyar\u0131.<\/p>\n
Saha Yeri\u2019nde ya\u015fayanlar \u00fclkelerine, Ruslar\u0131n verdi\u011fi isim olan Yakutistan de\u011fil Saha Yeri denmesini bizden \u00f6zellikle istediler.<\/p>\n
\u0130lk g\u00fcn m\u00fczelerle ba\u015flad\u0131: M\u00fccevher M\u00fczesi, Mamut M\u00fczesi, Buz M\u00fczesi\u2026<\/p>\n
D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en \u00f6nemli koleksiyonlar\u0131ndan birine sahip Mamut m\u00fczesinde binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k ge\u00e7mi\u015fi, sonsuzlu\u011fu g\u00f6rd\u00fcm. 50 bin y\u0131ll\u0131k donmu\u015f mamut, zaman\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda insan\u0131n k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc hissettiriyordu.<\/p>\n
M\u00fccevher M\u00fczesi\u2019nde elmaslar\u0131n \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n
Buz M\u00fczesi\u2019nde de sonsuzluk hissine kap\u0131l\u0131yorsunuz. Donmu\u015f t\u00fcnellerin i\u00e7inde y\u00fcr\u00fcmek, insan\u0131n zaman alg\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 alt \u00fcst ediyordu. Buz M\u00fczesi\u2019nde donmu\u015f t\u00fcnellerde sergilenen heykeller Yakut k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc yans\u0131t\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n
Saha Yeri-Yakuts’da d\u00fcnyada devlet m\u00fczesi olarak tek olan Komuz M\u00fczesi’ni de gezdik.<\/p>\n
Komuz, Kuzey T\u00fcrklerinin en eski ve en yo\u011fun kulland\u0131klar\u0131 m\u00fczik enstr\u00fcman\u0131 olarak g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde de kullan\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Ama as\u0131l unutulmaz an, Tarihi 13-14 y\u00fczy\u0131la dayanan Is\u0131ah Bayram\u0131\u2019yd\u0131.<\/p>\n
Eski T\u00fcrk inan\u00e7 sisteminin pek \u00e7ok unsurlar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde ya\u015fatan ve Saha Cumhuriyeti olarak bilinen co\u011frafyada ya\u015fayan Sahalar gerek g\u00fcnl\u00fck hayatlar\u0131na gerek edebiyat ve sanatlar\u0131na gerekse de t\u00f6renlerine bu inan\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131 yans\u0131t\u0131yorlar. Bu ba\u011flamda ele al\u0131nabilecek kutlamalardan biri Is\u0131ah.<\/p>\n
Sahalar, k\u0131srak s\u00fct\u00fcn\u00fcn bol oldu\u011fu, topra\u011f\u0131n bereketlenmeye ve yaz g\u00fcnd\u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve en uzun g\u00fcnd\u00fcz\u00fcn ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 21 Haziran\u2019da Is\u0131ah bayram\u0131n\u0131 kutluyorlar. Bayram 2 g\u00fcn s\u00fcr\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrklerin eski inan\u00e7 sistemini canl\u0131 tutan bir gelenek olan Saha T\u00fcrklerinin en \u00f6nemli t\u00f6reni Is\u0131ah Bayram\u0131\u2019na biz de denk geldik.<\/p>\n
Eski T\u00fcrk inan\u00e7 sisteminin g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze ta\u015f\u0131nm\u0131\u015f h\u00e2li olan Is\u0131ah Bayram\u0131\u2019nda on binlerce insan beyaz giysiler i\u00e7inde bir araya geliyor.<\/p>\n
T\u00f6ren alan\u0131na giri\u015fte ate\u015fin etraf\u0131nda \u00fc\u00e7 kez d\u00f6n\u00fcl\u00fcyor, bak\u0131r levhalara dokunularak k\u00f6t\u00fc ruhlardan ar\u0131n\u0131l\u0131yor. Bu uygulamalar, eski T\u00fcrklerde ate\u015f ve madenin kutsal kabul edildi\u011fini g\u00f6steriyor.<\/p>\n
T\u00f6rende k\u00f6t\u00fc ruhlardan ar\u0131nma rit\u00fcelleri yap\u0131l\u0131r, ate\u015fin etraf\u0131nda d\u00f6n\u00fcl\u00fcr, bak\u0131r levhalara dokunulur.<\/p>\n
Gece yar\u0131s\u0131ndan sonra binlerce ki\u015fi g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcne bakarak g\u00fcne\u015fi kar\u015f\u0131lad\u0131. Bizde onlara kat\u0131ld\u0131k. 03.00 sular\u0131nda, gecenin en beyaz an\u0131nda, sabaha kar\u015f\u0131 g\u00fcne\u015f y\u00fckselirken hep birlikte ellerini g\u00f6\u011fe kald\u0131r\u0131p hayk\u0131rd\u0131lar:<\/p>\n
\u201cAykal Uura!\u201d<\/p>\n
Yani: Ya\u015fas\u0131n, olsun, amin!<\/p>\n
G\u00fcne\u015fin do\u011fu\u015funu bir toplulukla birlikte kutsamak, insan\u0131n i\u00e7ini dolduran bir deneyimdi.<\/p>\n
Yakutlar\u0131n \u00fcnl\u00fc \u201cOhuokay\u201d yani Kutsal Halka Dans\u0131\u2019n\u0131 da izledik. Binlerce insan el ele vererek b\u00fcy\u00fck bir halka olu\u015fturuyor, \u015fark\u0131lar s\u00f6yl\u00fcyorlard\u0131. Biz de onlara kat\u0131ld\u0131k, birlikte dans ettik. T\u00f6rende k\u0131m\u0131z i\u00e7iliyor, dualar ediliyordu. Bunlar bize, Orta Asya bozk\u0131r k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn h\u00e2l\u00e2 ya\u015fat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6sterdi.<\/p>\n
Yakut T\u00fcrklerinin en me\u015fhur Kutsal Halka Dans\u0131 (Ohuokay) sanat\u00e7\u0131s\u0131 Kuraahay Meheele ile Yakuts’ta Is\u0131ah Bayram\u0131’nda kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131k.<\/p>\n
T\u00f6rende, Sibirya’n\u0131n \u00e7ok so\u011fuk havas\u0131na ra\u011fmen Yakut T\u00fcrklerinin binlerce y\u0131ld\u0131r s\u00fcrd\u00fcrd\u00fckleri gelenekleri yerinde, canl\u0131 g\u00f6rmenin zevkine ula\u015ft\u0131m.<\/p>\n
Saha Yeri- Yakutistan’da gece g\u00f6rmedim. G\u00fcne\u015f gece 12’de bat\u0131yor 02’de do\u011fuyor. En karanl\u0131k oldu\u011fu zaman T\u00fcrkiye’de ki ak\u015fam gibi.<\/p>\n
Saha Yeri-Yakuts k\u00fclt\u00fcr gezimizi d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en uzun 10. Irma\u011f\u0131 olan Lena Nehri’ni (Yakut\u00e7a: \u04e8\u043b\u04af\u04e9\u043d\u044d \u00d6l\u00fc\u00f6ne) g\u00f6rerek tamamlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n
Toplam uzunlu\u011fu 5.200 km, havzas\u0131 2.490.000 km\u00b2 olan Lena Nehri y\u0131l\u0131n 7 ay\u0131nda buzlarla kapl\u0131ym\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
Baykal G\u00f6l\u00fc’n\u00fcn 20 km bat\u0131s\u0131nda, Baykal Da\u011flar\u0131’nda 1640 m y\u00fcksekte do\u011fan nehir, Yakutsk’u boydan boya ge\u00e7erek Kuzey Buz Denizi’nin bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olan Laptek Denizi’ne d\u00f6k\u00fcl\u00fcr. Ben o nehrin sessizli\u011finde bu b\u00fcy\u00fck yolculu\u011fun anlam\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcm.<\/p>\n
Rehberimiz Nikolai bize Yakutistan\u2019\u0131n \u015fehirlerini s\u0131ralad\u0131: elmas ba\u015fkenti Mirny, k\u00f6m\u00fcr diyar\u0131 Neryungri, so\u011fuk ba\u015fkenti Verkhoyansk\u2026 Hepsi u\u00e7suz bucaks\u0131z Sibirya\u2019n\u0131n par\u00e7alar\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n
Altay ve Saha Yeri gezimde beni etkileyen 2 konuyu \u00f6zellikle payla\u015fmak istiyorum..<\/p>\n
Birincisi 2 \u00fclkenin de tertemiz olu\u015fuydu. Da\u011flar, ormanlar, nehirler, \u015fehirler tertemizdi. Yerlerde bir tek \u00e7\u00f6p g\u00f6rmedim, \u00f6zellikle bakt\u0131m g\u00f6remedim. Bu beni b\u00fcy\u00fcledi. T\u00fcrkiye\u2019yi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmde kendimden utand\u0131m.<\/p>\n
\u0130kincisi, Rusya\u2019n\u0131n 2 \u00f6zerk b\u00f6lgesi olmas\u0131na, e\u011fitimlerinin Rus\u00e7a olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen T\u00fcrk\u00e7e\u2019nin Altay ve Saha \u015fivelerini unutmamalar\u0131. Rus\u00e7a ba\u015flad\u0131klar\u0131 konu\u015fmalar\u0131na \u2018kendi dilinizde konu\u015fun\u2019 iste\u011fimize g\u00f6zlerinin i\u00e7i g\u00fclerek ak\u0131c\u0131 konu\u015farak cevap veriyorlard\u0131. Bizim T\u00fcrk Cumhuriyetlerinde ya\u015fayanlar kendi \u015fivelerinde konu\u015furken hem zorlan\u0131yorlar hem de araya \u00e7ok\u00e7a Rus\u00e7a kelime kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yorlar ve birka\u00e7 c\u00fcmle sonra Rus\u00e7aya d\u00f6n\u00fcyorlard\u0131.<\/p>\n
Kendi \u015fivelerine bu kadar hakim olmalar\u0131 ve rahat\u00e7a konu\u015fmalar\u0131 beni \u00e7ok mutlu etti. Ayr\u0131ca Altayl\u0131lar\u0131n konu\u015fmalar\u0131n\u0131n %30\u2019unu Sahalar\u0131n ise %20\u2019sini rahat anl\u0131yor olmam ayn\u0131 millete mensup oldu\u011fumuzun en belirgin g\u00f6stergesiydi.<\/p>\n
Ayr\u0131ca \u00f6zellikle bizim T\u00fcrk dizilerinin ta oralarda bile izleniyor olmas\u0131 ,\u00f6zellikle gen\u00e7 k\u0131zlar\u0131n dizilerden \u00f6rnekler vermesi beni \u00e7ok da \u015fa\u015f\u0131rtmad\u0131.<\/p>\n
Altaylar ve Saha Yeri\/Yakutistan, T\u00fcrk tarih ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn canl\u0131 izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yan iki co\u011frafya. Altaylarda kaya resimleri, kurganlar ve destanlar; Yakutistan\u2019da Is\u0131ah Bayram\u0131 ve beyaz geceler, T\u00fcrk k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn s\u00fcreklili\u011fini ortaya koydu\u011fu gibi T\u00fcrk k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde de ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n g\u00f6stergesi.<\/p>\n
Yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m gezi, bu b\u00f6lgelerin T\u00fcrklerin kolektif haf\u0131zas\u0131nda \u201ck\u00f6k \u00fclke\u201d niteli\u011fi ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bir kez daha g\u00f6stermesinin yan\u0131s\u0131ra T\u00fcrklerin tarihsel s\u00fcreklili\u011fini ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel miras\u0131n\u0131n zenginli\u011fini g\u00f6zler \u00f6n\u00fcne serdi.<\/p>\n
Altaylardan SahaYeri\/Yakutistan\u2019a uzanan bu yolculuk, yaln\u0131zca co\u011frafi bir seyahat de\u011fil; T\u00fcrk tarihinin, k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn ve inan\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n izini s\u00fcrmekti. Her kaya resmi, her efsane, her t\u00f6ren bana atalar\u0131m\u0131n sesini duyurdu.<\/p>\n
Bu yolculuk yaln\u0131zca bir gezi de\u011fil; k\u00f6klerimize, destanlar\u0131m\u0131za, ortak haf\u0131zam\u0131za yap\u0131lan bir yolculuktu. Ve ben, binlerce y\u0131l sonra o izleri takip ederek atalar\u0131m\u0131n yolunda y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fcm.<\/p>\n
Bug\u00fcn Altay k\u00f6ylerinde, SahaYeri\/Yakutistan\u2019\u0131n t\u00f6ren alanlar\u0131nda g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm \u015fey \u015fuydu:<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrk kimli\u011fi yaln\u0131zca bir tarih kitab\u0131nda de\u011fil, h\u00e2l\u00e2 ya\u015fayan, nefes alan bir ger\u00e7ektir.<\/p>\n
Her durakta ta\u015flara kaz\u0131nm\u0131\u015f bir yaz\u0131, bir efsane, bir t\u00fcrk\u00fc bize ayn\u0131 \u015feyi s\u00f6yl\u00fcyordu:<\/p>\n
\u201cBiz buradayd\u0131k\u2026 Ve siz h\u00e2l\u00e2 buradas\u0131n\u0131z.\u201d<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Bu makalemde sizlere unutulmaz bir yolculu\u011fumu, T\u00fcrk d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n kalbine uzanan bir seyahatimi anlatmak istiyorum. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":195,"featured_media":19180,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_ef_editorial_meta_date_first-draft-date":"","_ef_editorial_meta_paragraph_assignment":"","footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"coauthors":[2707],"class_list":["post-19177","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-genel"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19177","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/195"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=19177"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19177\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":19184,"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19177\/revisions\/19184"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/19180"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=19177"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=19177"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=19177"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/millidusunce.com\/misak\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/coauthors?post=19177"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}