Mo\u011folistan\u2026 Sadece bir co\u011frafya de\u011fil, bir ruh, bir k\u00f6k, bir hat\u0131rlay\u0131\u015f\u2026<\/p>\n
Bu yolculuk benim i\u00e7in s\u0131radan bir gezi de\u011fildi. Atalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n izini s\u00fcrmek, onlar\u0131n bast\u0131\u011f\u0131 topraklara basmak, nefes ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 bozk\u0131rlarda nefes almak demekti.<\/p>\n
Bozk\u0131r\u0131n ortas\u0131nda bir yurt\u2026Ad\u0131 haritada bir \u00fclke olarak ge\u00e7er ama bir T\u00fcrk milliyet\u00e7isi bir T\u00fcrk\u00e7\u00fc olarak benim i\u00e7in ondan fazlas\u0131.<\/p>\n
O yurt Mo\u011folistan de\u011fil yaln\u0131zca\u2026<\/p>\n
O, T\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn ilk nefesidir.<\/p>\n
Ve ben, y\u0131llarca hayalini kurdu\u011fum o topraklardayd\u0131m.<\/p>\n
Mo\u011folistan gezisinde ba\u015fta Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131 (Bilge Ka\u011fan, K\u00fcl Tigin, Tonyukuk ve \u0130lteri\u015f Ka\u011fan) olmak \u00fczere, baz\u0131 kurganlar\u0131 ve obolar\u0131, Orhun Irma\u011f\u0131 ve Orhun \u00c7a\u011flayan\u0131, Tam\u0131r (Ihtam\u0131r) Irma\u011f\u0131, Taikhar Kayas\u0131, \u00d6t\u00fcken\/\u00d6t\u00fcken Orman\u0131, Cengiz Han Heykeli, eski ba\u015fkentlerden Karabalgasun ve Karakurum\u2019u, Cengiz Han M\u00fczesi, Do\u011fa Tarihi M\u00fczesi, Karakurum M\u00fczesi, \u00c7e\u00e7erleg M\u00fczesi, Gandan Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 ve Erdene Zu Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131, Hustai Ulusal Park\u0131 ve Thokhoi U\u00e7urumu gibi do\u011fal olu\u015fumlar, tarihi mek\u00e2nlar, m\u00fczeler ve benzeri yerleri ziyaret ettik.<\/p>\n
\u015eimdi hep birlikte gelin T\u00fcrk tarih ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu co\u011frafyay\u0131 birlikte gezelim :<\/p>\n
\u0130lk ad\u0131m\u0131m\u0131z Ulanbatur\u2019dayd\u0131. Ve 22 Haziran\u2019da lapa lapa kar ya\u011f\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n
Ama \u015fehirde bile i\u00e7imizde bir acele vard\u0131. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc biliyorduk\u2026<\/p>\n
As\u0131l bizi bekleyen, asfalt\u0131n bitti\u011fi yerdeydi.<\/p>\n
Bozk\u0131ra \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k.<\/p>\n
\u0130z yok\u2026 yol yok\u2026 bildi\u011fimiz anlamda yol yok.. Ama o bozk\u0131rda \u2018 her Mo\u011folun bir yolu var \u2018 ve sadece y\u00f6n var.<\/p>\n
Ve o y\u00f6n bizi do\u011frudan tarihe g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fc.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\u0130lk durak:<\/p>\n
Tonyukuk Yaz\u0131t\u0131.<\/p>\n
Bir vezir\u2026 bir ak\u0131l\u2026 bir devlet kurucu\u2026<\/p>\n
Kendi s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc ta\u015fa kaz\u0131m\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
Orada durdu\u011fumuzda \u015funu hissettik:<\/p>\n
Bu yaz\u0131t okunmaz\u2026 dinlenir.<\/p>\n
Bilge Tonyukuk Yaz\u0131t\u0131, Ulanbatur\u2019un yakla\u015f\u0131k 55 km g\u00fcney do\u011fusunda ve 1528 m y\u00fckseltideki Nalayh il\u00e7esi Bain Tsokto b\u00f6lgesindedir. Bu nedenle Bain-Tsokto Yaz\u0131t\u0131 olarak da adland\u0131r\u0131l\u0131r. Bilge Ka\u011fan ve K\u00fcl Tigin Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131 ile aras\u0131nda 360 km mesafe vard\u0131r. Bilge Tonyukuk, II. G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk Ka\u011fanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00f6neminde, 646 ila 726 aras\u0131nda \u0130lteri\u015f Ka\u011fan, Kapgan Ka\u011fan ve Bilge Ka\u011fan\u2019a vezirlik yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bilge Ka\u011fan\u0131n veziri, kumandan\u0131 ve dan\u0131\u015fman\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Tonyukuk Yaz\u0131t\u0131, \u00f6lmeden \u00f6nce bizzat kendisi taraf\u0131ndan diktirilmi\u015ftir. Granit kayas\u0131ndan olu\u015fan d\u00f6rt cepheli iki yaz\u0131ttan ibarettir. Birinci yaz\u0131t, 243 cm; ikinci yaz\u0131t ise, 217 cm y\u00fcksekli\u011finde olup, Birinci yaz\u0131tta 35, ikinci yaz\u0131tta 27 sat\u0131r Orhun harfli T\u00fcrk\u00e7e metin bulunmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Yaz\u0131t\u0131n yaz\u0131l\u0131\u015f ve dikili\u015f tarihi kesin olarak bilinmemektedir.<\/p>\n
Ancak ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131lar\u0131n ortak g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f\u00fc 720-725 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda dikildi\u011fi y\u00f6n\u00fcndedir. Yaz\u0131tta G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk d\u00f6nemine ait olaylar, sava\u015flar ve kom\u015fular\u0131yla olan ili\u015fkiler bizzat Tonyukuk taraf\u0131ndan anlat\u0131lmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Bilge Tonyukuk mezar alan\u0131n\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda da 271 balbal bulunmaktad\u0131r. Balballar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc \u00f6nemli \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde tahrip olmu\u015f, olduk\u00e7a az bir k\u0131sm\u0131 dikili durmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Yakla\u015f\u0131k 1300 y\u0131ld\u0131r Mo\u011folistan\u2019\u0131n sert iklim ko\u015fullar\u0131na direnen yaz\u0131t, \u00f6nemli \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde a\u015f\u0131nman\u0131n etkisinde kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde Tonyukuk Yaz\u0131t\u0131 da yerinden s\u00f6k\u00fclerek yak\u0131n\u0131nda yap\u0131lan m\u00fcze-depoya ge\u00e7ici olarak konmu\u015f.<\/p>\n
Yaz\u0131t\u0131n s\u00f6k\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc yere T\u0130KA b\u00fcy\u00fck ve kapal\u0131 bir m\u00fcze yap\u0131yor. M\u00fcze in\u015faat\u0131 bitti\u011finde Tonyukuk Yaz\u0131t\u0131 s\u00f6k\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc yerine dikilecek ve ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131lacak.<\/p>\n
M\u00fcze -depoda ziyaret etti\u011fimiz yaz\u0131tta Tonyukuk \u015f\u00f6yle diyor :<\/p>\n
\u201cBilge Tonyukuk ben kendim \u00c7in ilinde k\u0131l\u0131nd\u0131m. T\u00fcrk Milleti \u00c7ine tabi idi. T\u00fcrk Milleti han\u0131n\u0131 bulamay\u0131p \u00c7in\u2019den ayr\u0131ld\u0131, hanland\u0131.\u201c<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Sonraki dura\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Cengiz Han Atl\u0131 Heykeli\u2026<\/p>\n
G\u00f6\u011fe y\u00fckselen bir irade gibi.<\/p>\n
Paslanmaz \u00e7elikten yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve 40 m y\u00fckseklikte olan Cengiz Han Heykeli Ulanbatur\u2019un 55 km g\u00fcneydo\u011fusunda Tsonjin-Boldog b\u00f6lgesinde Tola (Tuul) Irma\u011f\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndad\u0131r. 2008 y\u0131l\u0131nda tamamlanan Heykel, Mo\u011fol \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun kurucusu ve ilk h\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131 olan Cengiz Han\u2019\u0131 at \u00fczerinde g\u00f6steriyor.<\/p>\n
Bir s\u00f6ylentiye g\u00f6re heykel, Cengiz Han\u2019\u0131n bir sava\u015f sonras\u0131nda alt\u0131n k\u0131rba\u00e7 buldu\u011fu tepeye yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Bu heykel g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde insan eliyle yap\u0131lan 100 harika eser aras\u0131nda yer al\u0131yor. Heykelin alt k\u0131sm\u0131 bir m\u00fcze. M\u00fczede devasa boyutlu bir Mo\u011fol ayakkab\u0131s\u0131 ve Mo\u011fol d\u00f6nemini tasvir eden e\u015fyalar sergileniyor.<\/p>\n
Cengiz Han Heykelinin tam kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131na, benzer \u015fekilde annesi H\u00f6elin\u2019in de heykeli dikilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n
Ama ben o heykele bakarken bile daha eski bir ad\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcm:<\/p>\n
Cengiz Han de\u011fil sadece\u2026Timu\u00e7in\u2026.<\/p>\n
\u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc bu topraklar, isimlerin bile hakikatini hat\u0131rlat\u0131r.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Ve nihayet\u2026<\/p>\n
Orhun Vadisi.<\/p>\n
Tarihin kalbi, T\u00fcrk milletinin haf\u0131zas\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n
Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde durdu\u011fum an, kelimeler bo\u011faz\u0131mda d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmlendi. Bilge Ka\u011fan\u2019\u0131n, Tonyukuk\u2019un sesini sanki r\u00fczg\u00e2r ta\u015f\u0131yordu. Bu sadece bir ta\u015f de\u011fil, bir milletin yeniden dirili\u015f hayk\u0131r\u0131\u015f\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
K\u00fcl Tigin Yaz\u0131t\u0131,<\/p>\n
Bilge Ka\u011fan Yaz\u0131t\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n
Yakla\u015ft\u0131k.<\/p>\n
Ellerim titredi.<\/p>\n
Ve o ta\u015flara sar\u0131ld\u0131m.<\/p>\n
\u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc onlar sadece ta\u015f de\u011fil\u2026<\/p>\n
Ata s\u00f6z\u00fcd\u00fcr.<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrk Tarihi i\u00e7in \u00e7ok \u00f6nemlidir Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n
Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131; T\u00fcrklerin bilinen ilk alfabesi olan Orhun\/G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk alfabesi ile G\u00f6kt\u00fcrkler taraf\u0131ndan ta\u015fa yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f an\u0131tsal eserlerdir.<\/p>\n
Orhun\/G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk alfabesinde 38 harf vard\u0131r. Orhun yaz\u0131s\u0131nda harfler biti\u015fmez.<\/p>\n
Yaz\u0131 sa\u011fdan sola yaz\u0131l\u0131r. Kelimeler, aralar\u0131na \u00fcst \u00fcste iki nokta konarak ayr\u0131l\u0131r. Orhun yaz\u0131tlar\u0131nda T\u00fcrklerin devlet anlay\u0131\u015f\u0131 ile y\u00f6netimi, k\u00fclt\u00fcr, sosyal hayat ve kom\u015fular\u0131 ile olan ili\u015fkileri hakk\u0131nda \u00f6nemli bilgiler verilmektedir. Bu k\u00fclt\u00fcr varl\u0131klar\u0131, Orhun An\u0131tlar\u0131, Orhun Abideleri, Orhun Kitabeleri veya G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk\/K\u00f6kt\u00fcrk Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131 gibi isimlerle an\u0131lmakta ise de g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde yayg\u0131n olarak Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131 olarak adland\u0131r\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131n\u0131n en \u00f6nemlileri Bilge Ka\u011fan, K\u00fcl Tigin ve Tonyukuk yaz\u0131tlar\u0131d\u0131r. Bu yaz\u0131tlara, sonsuzlu\u011fa kadar kalmas\u0131 temennisi ile \u201cBeng\u00fc Ta\u015flar\u201d denmi\u015ftir. Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131 ve benzeri tarihi kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131n bulundu\u011fu Orhun Vadisi UNESCO taraf\u0131ndan 2004 y\u0131l\u0131nda D\u00fcnya K\u00fclt\u00fcr Miras\u0131 olarak koruma alt\u0131na al\u0131nm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Bilge Ka\u011fan ve K\u00fcl Tigin Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131n\u0131 ilk bulan ve gezi notlar\u0131n\u0131 1730\u2019da yay\u0131mlayan \u0130sve\u00e7li bir subay olan Strahlenberg, yaz\u0131tlar\u0131n birer kopyas\u0131n\u0131 1889 y\u0131l\u0131nda bilim d\u00fcnyas\u0131na sunan ki\u015fi Rus Yadrintsev ve ilk arkeolojik ara\u015ft\u0131rmay\u0131 1890 y\u0131l\u0131nda yapan ve birer kopyalar\u0131n\u0131 alan ki\u015fi ise Finli Heikel\u2019dir.<\/p>\n
Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131n ilk \u00f6nce \u00c7ince y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn 1891\u2019de Gabalentz taraf\u0131ndan okunarak Almancaya \u00e7evrilmesi, T\u00fcrk\u00e7e yaz\u0131lar\u0131n \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fclmesini de kolayla\u015ft\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Yaz\u0131tlar, 1893 y\u0131l\u0131nda Rus T\u00fcrkolog Vasili Radloff\u2019un da yard\u0131m\u0131yla Danimarkal\u0131 dilbilimci Vilhelm Thomsen taraf\u0131ndan \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f ve ilk \u00f6nce Tengri, K\u00fcl Tigin ve T\u00fcrk kelimeleri okunmu\u015f ve daha sonra yaz\u0131t\u0131n tamam\u0131 okunarak ayn\u0131 y\u0131l\u0131n 15 Aral\u0131k g\u00fcn\u00fc Danimarka Kraliyet Bilimler Akademisi taraf\u0131ndan bilim d\u00fcnyas\u0131na duyurulmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n
K\u00fcl Tigin ve Bilge Ka\u011fan yaz\u0131tlar\u0131 Mo\u011folistan\u2019daki Karakurum\/Harhorin kentinin 47 km kuzeyinde Orhun Irma\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n eski yata\u011f\u0131 yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda, Ko\u00e7ho Tsaydam b\u00f6lgesinde bulunur. Yaz\u0131tlar aras\u0131ndaki uzakl\u0131k 1 kilometre kadard\u0131r. Yaz\u0131tlar gri kire\u00e7ta\u015f\u0131\/gri mermerden yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n
K\u00fcl Tigin Yaz\u0131t\u0131 1373 metre rak\u0131mdad\u0131r. 731 y\u0131l\u0131ndaki \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden sonra, 732 y\u0131l\u0131nda a\u011fabeyi Bilge Ka\u011fan taraf\u0131ndan diktirilmi\u015ftir. Yaz\u0131c\u0131s\u0131 Bilge Ka\u011fan\u2019\u0131n o\u011flu Yollug Tigin\u2019dir. Yaz\u0131t\u0131n y\u00fcksekli\u011fi 335 cm\u2019dir. D\u00f6rt cephelidir. Yaz\u0131t\u0131n do\u011fu y\u00fcz\u00fcnde 40, kuzey-g\u00fcney y\u00fczlerinde 13\u2019er Orhun harfli metin vard\u0131r. K\u00fcl Tigin Yaz\u0131t\u0131nda G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk tarihine ait olaylar Bilge Ka\u011fan\u2019\u0131n a\u011fz\u0131ndan anlat\u0131larak, birlik ve b\u00fct\u00fcnl\u00fck mesaj\u0131 verilir.<\/p>\n
Bilge Ka\u011fan Yaz\u0131t\u0131 ise 1378 metre rak\u0131mdad\u0131r. \u00d6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden sonra o\u011flu Tenri Ka\u011fan taraf\u0131ndan 735 y\u0131l\u0131nda diktirilmi\u015ftir. Bilge Ka\u011fan Yaz\u0131t\u0131 \u015fekil, yap\u0131 ve i\u00e7erik bak\u0131m\u0131ndan K\u00fcl Tigin yaz\u0131t\u0131yla b\u00fcy\u00fck benzerlik g\u00f6sterir.<\/p>\n
Yaz\u0131t\u0131n y\u00fcksekli\u011fi 375 cm\u2019dir ve d\u00f6rt cephelidir. Yaz\u0131t\u0131n do\u011fu y\u00fcz\u00fcnde 41, kuzey ve g\u00fcney y\u00fczlerinde 15\u2019er sat\u0131r Orhun harfli T\u00fcrk\u00e7e metin bulunmaktad\u0131r. Yaz\u0131tta olaylar\u0131 nakleden, \u00f6\u011f\u00fctler veren (K\u00fcl Tigin yaz\u0131t\u0131nda oldu\u011fu gibi) yine Bilge Ka\u011fan\u2019dir. Yaz\u0131ta K\u00fcl Tigin\u2019in \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden sonraki olaylar da ilave edilmi\u015ftir. Yaz\u0131t\u0131n Orhun harfli k\u0131s\u0131mlar\u0131n\u0131n yaz\u0131c\u0131s\u0131 Yollug Tigin\u2019dir. Ayr\u0131ca Orhun yaz\u0131tlar\u0131n\u0131n bir y\u00fcz\u00fcnde de \u00c7ince metinler yer almaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n
A\u00e7\u0131k alanda tahribata u\u011frayan yaz\u0131tlar 2000-2001 y\u0131llar\u0131nda yerlerinden al\u0131n\u0131p, restore edilerek T\u0130KA (T\u00fcrk \u0130\u015fbirli\u011fi ve Koordinasyon Ajans\u0131) taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lan depo-m\u00fczeye ta\u015f\u0131nm\u0131\u015f ve 2001 y\u0131l\u0131 sonuna do\u011fru da ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Yaz\u0131tlar ve \u00e7evrelerinde bulunan eserler, 2008 y\u0131l\u0131nda T\u0130KA i\u015fbirli\u011fiyle in\u015fa edilen bug\u00fcnk\u00fc m\u00fczeye ta\u015f\u0131narak ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. M\u00fczeye ta\u015f\u0131nan eserlerin yerlerine ise birer kopyalar\u0131 dikilerek \u00e7evresi ile birlikte koruma alt\u0131na al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
K\u00fcl Tigin ve Bilge Ka\u011fan Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde birbirine benzerler. Her iki yaz\u0131tta yer alan ve T\u00fcrk tarihi a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00f6nem ta\u015f\u0131yan ve \u00e7ok de\u011ferli \u00f6\u011f\u00fctler i\u00e7eren b\u00f6l\u00fcmlerinden bir k\u0131sm\u0131 \u015f\u00f6yle:<\/p>\n
\u201cTanr\u0131 gibi g\u00f6kte olmu\u015f T\u00fcrk Bilge Ka\u011fan\u0131, bu zamanda oturdum. S\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fc tamam\u0131yla i\u015fit. Bilhassa k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck karde\u015f ye\u011fenim, o\u011flum, b\u00fct\u00fcn soyum, milletim, g\u00fcneydeki \u015eadp\u0131t beyleri, kuzeydeki Tarkat, buyruk beyleri, Otuz Tatar\u2026 Dokuz O\u011fuz Beyleri, milleti! Bu s\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fc iyice i\u015fit, adamak\u0131ll\u0131 dinle: Do\u011fuda g\u00fcn do\u011fusuna, g\u00fcneyde g\u00fcn ortas\u0131na, bat\u0131da g\u00fcn bat\u0131s\u0131na, kuzeyde gece ortas\u0131na kadar, onun i\u00e7indeki millet hep bana tabidir. Bunca milleti hep d\u00fczene soktum. O \u015fimdi k\u00f6t\u00fc de\u011fildir. T\u00fcrk Ka\u011fan\u0131 \u00d6t\u00fcken orman\u0131nda otursa ilde s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131 yoktur.\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cBunca yere kadar ordular y\u00fcr\u00fctt\u00fcm. \u00d6t\u00fcken orman\u0131ndan daha iyisi hi\u00e7 yokmu\u015f. \u0130l tutacak yer \u00d6t\u00fcken orman\u0131 imi\u015f.\u201d<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrk, O\u011fuz beyleri, milleti, i\u015fitin: \u00dcstte mavi g\u00f6k, altta ya\u011f\u0131z yer k\u0131l\u0131nd\u0131kta, ikisi aras\u0131nda insano\u011flu k\u0131l\u0131nm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
\u0130nsano\u011flunun \u00fczerine ecdad\u0131m Bumin Ka\u011fan, \u0130stemi Ka\u011fan oturmu\u015f. Oturarak T\u00fcrk Milletinin ilini, t\u00f6resini tutu vermi\u015f, d\u00fczene sokmu\u015f. D\u00f6rt taraf hep d\u00fc\u015fman imi\u015f. Ordu sevk ederek d\u00f6rt taraftaki milleti hep alm\u0131\u015f, hep tabi k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Ba\u015fl\u0131ya ba\u015f e\u011fdirmi\u015f, dizliye diz \u00e7\u00f6kt\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f.\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cYukar\u0131da T\u00fcrk Tanr\u0131s\u0131, T\u00fcrk mukaddes yeri, suyu \u00f6yle tanzim etmi\u015f. T\u00fcrk Milleti yok olmas\u0131n diye babam \u0130lteri\u015f Ka\u011fan\u0131, annem \u0130lbilge Hatunu g\u00f6\u011f\u00fcn tepesinden tutup yukar\u0131 kald\u0131rm\u0131\u015f olacak. Babam ka\u011fan 17 erle d\u0131\u015far\u0131 \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f.\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cT\u00fcrk, O\u011fuz beyleri, milleti, i\u015fitin; \u00dcstte g\u00f6k basmazsa, altta yer delinmezse, T\u00fcrk Milleti ilini, t\u00f6reni kim bozabilecekti?<\/p>\n
2022 y\u0131l\u0131nda da b\u00f6lgenin en \u00f6nemli ke\u015fiflerinden biri daha yap\u0131ld\u0131.<\/p>\n
Bu ke\u015fifde bulunan yaz\u0131t\u0131n, ikinci Do\u011fu G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk Ka\u011fanl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n kurucusu \u0130lteri\u015f Ka\u011fan\u2019a (Kutluk Ka\u011fan) ait oldu\u011fu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n
2019\u2019da Arhangay\u2019daki Nomgon Ovas\u0131\u2019nda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131na ba\u015flayan T\u00fcrk ve Mo\u011fol bilim insanlar\u0131, yapt\u0131klar\u0131 kaz\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131nda 700 y\u0131l\u0131na ait b\u00fcy\u00fck bir kurganda, iki y\u00fcz\u00fc G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk\u00e7e ve bir y\u00fcz\u00fc So\u011fdca yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir yaz\u0131t bulmu\u015flar.<\/p>\n
Yaz\u0131t\u0131n \u0130kinci G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk Ka\u011fanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 yeniden canland\u0131ran K\u00fcl Tigin ve Bilge Ka\u011fan\u2019\u0131n babas\u0131 \u0130lteri\u015f Ka\u011fan ad\u0131na dikildi\u011fi sonucuna var\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
\u0130lk ara\u015ft\u0131rmalarda yaz\u0131t\u0131n \u00fczerinde \u201cTanr\u0131\u201d, \u201cT\u00fcrk\u201d, \u201cKutlug\u201d, \u201ct\u00fcmen\u201d gibi bir dizi kelime tespit edilmi\u015ftir. Bu yaz\u0131t, \u201cT\u00fcrk\u201d ad\u0131n\u0131n ilk kez ge\u00e7ti\u011fi G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk d\u00f6neminin en eski yaz\u0131l\u0131 an\u0131t\u0131 oldu\u011fu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcl\u00fcyor. Orhun yaz\u0131tlar\u0131ndan sonra bulunan en \u00f6nemli ke\u015fif olarak kabul ediliyor. Yaz\u0131t\u0131, \u00fczerinde restorasyon \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 devam eden depoda ziyaret ettik.<\/p>\n
\u0130deallerimin sembollerinden, mar\u015flar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n en belirgin \u00f6gelerinden Orhun nehri.<\/p>\n
1141 km uzunlu\u011fundaki Orhun nehri Mo\u011folistan’\u0131n orta bat\u0131s\u0131ndaki Hangar da\u011flar\u0131ndan do\u011fup, kuzey do\u011fuya do\u011fru ilerliyor, Selenga ve Tul \u0131rmaklar\u0131yla birle\u015fiyor ve Baykal g\u00f6l\u00fcne d\u00f6k\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n
Ve biz gezimize Orhun nehri boyunca devam ettik.<\/p>\n
Orhun Irma\u011f\u0131 ak\u0131yordu\u2026<\/p>\n
Orhun Irma\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerin gidebildi\u011fimiz en yak\u0131n yerine geldi\u011fimizde hava olduk\u00e7a so\u011fuktu. 40 y\u0131ll\u0131k arkada\u015flar\u0131m meslekta\u015flar\u0131m S\u00fcreyya ve Sema suya girmemin delilik oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yledi. Ama ben y\u0131llard\u0131r buran\u0131n hayaliyle ya\u015f\u0131yordum. \u201cBuz olsa k\u0131rar yine girerim\u201d dedim ve kendimi suya b\u0131rakt\u0131m. Y\u00fczd\u00fcm\u2026 Kim bilir atalar\u0131mdan kimler y\u00fczm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc o nehirde? O an onlar\u0131n ruhunu hissettim. Suyun her damlas\u0131 sanki ge\u00e7mi\u015ften bir hat\u0131rayd\u0131.<\/p>\n
Beni etkileyen yerlerden biri de Orhun \u00c7a\u011flayan\u0131yd\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n
Ve Orhun \u00c7a\u011flayan\u0131\u2019nda sustuk.<\/p>\n
\u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc orada konu\u015fmak, eksik kalmak demekti.<\/p>\n
Orhun \u00c7a\u011flayan\u0131, Karakurum\u2019un yakla\u015f\u0131k 120 km g\u00fcneybat\u0131s\u0131nda, \u00d6v\u00f6rhangay\/Burgaasatayn yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda, Orhun Irma\u011f\u0131 \u00fczerinde, yakla\u015f\u0131k 1800 m y\u00fckseklikte bulunuyor. Irma\u011f\u0131n suyu 30 metre y\u00fcksekten ak\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
\u00c7a\u011flayan b\u00f6lgedeki gen\u00e7 bazaltlar\u0131n olu\u015fturdu\u011fu bir set \u00fczerinden d\u00f6k\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n
Seyredenler i\u00e7in g\u00f6rsel bir g\u00fczellik olu\u015fturuyor.<\/p>\n
Uurtiin Thokhoi U\u00e7urumu da, Orhun Irma\u011f\u0131n\u0131n do\u011fu k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki do\u011fal bir u\u00e7urumdur. U\u00e7urumun rak\u0131m\u0131 1630 metredir. Orhun Irma\u011f\u0131 bu muhte\u015fem do\u011fal u\u00e7urumun alt\u0131ndan ak\u0131yor ve yerden \u015fifal\u0131 mineralli so\u011fuk bir su kayna\u011f\u0131 (maden suyu) \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Gezginler i\u00e7in k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir seyir teras\u0131 buluyor.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Orhun vadisindeki gezimizdeki bir di\u011fer dura\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u00d6ng\u00fct Kurgan\u0131yd\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n
Y\u00fczlerce Balbal\u2026<\/p>\n
Her biri bir sava\u015f\u0131n ni\u015fan\u0131.<\/p>\n
Her biri bir T\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn hat\u0131ras\u0131.<\/p>\n
Kurgan, T\u00fcrk ve Altay k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcnde kutsal mezard\u0131r. \u0130\u00e7inde ulu ve kutlu ki\u015filerin yatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6m\u00fct veya k\u00fcmbetlere verilen add\u0131r. Eski T\u00fcrk geleneklerinde genellikle y\u0131\u011fma ta\u015f ve topraktan yap\u0131lan h\u00f6y\u00fck \u015feklinde mezarlard\u0131r. Genelde devlet y\u00f6neticisi veya komutanlar i\u00e7in yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Kurganlar\u0131n \u00e7ap\u0131 200 metreye, y\u00fckseklikleri 20 metreye kadar olabilmektedir. Yap\u0131lan incelemeler g\u00f6re, ceset odas\u0131n\u0131n d\u00f6\u015femesi genelde a\u011fa\u00e7 k\u00fct\u00fckleri ve kalastan yap\u0131l\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Cesetlerin ba\u015f\u0131 do\u011fuya \u00e7evrilmi\u015f olur ve e\u015fyalar\u0131 ile birlikte g\u00f6m\u00fcl\u00fcrler. Kurganlar\u0131n farkl\u0131 b\u00f6lgelerinde at iskeletlerine de rastlan\u0131lmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n
K\u0131saca kurganlar T\u00fcrk k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcnde, \u00f6len bir ki\u015finin ebedi hayat\u0131n\u0131 ge\u00e7irece\u011fi yer olup, \u00f6len bir insan\u0131n di\u011fer d\u00fcnyaya yolculu\u011funun da ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve son vedan\u0131n yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer olarak kabul ediliyor.<\/p>\n
Mo\u011folistan\u2019\u0131n \u00e7e\u015fitli b\u00f6lgelerinde ve \u00f6zellikle Orhun vadisinde \u00e7ok say\u0131da kurgan mevcut. Bunlar\u0131n \u00e7ok az bir k\u0131sm\u0131nda arkeolojik kaz\u0131 yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
\u0130\u015fte kaz\u0131 yap\u0131lan b\u00f6lgedeki \u00f6nemli kurganlardan biridir \u00d6ng\u00fct (Ungut) Kurgan\u0131. Mo\u011folistan\u2019\u0131n 80 km bat\u0131s\u0131nda, Altanbulag \u0130l\u00e7esi \u00d6ng\u00fct Da\u011f\u0131 eteklerinde bulunan ve VI-VIII. YY T\u00fcrk Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131na ait olan \u00d6ng\u00fct Kurgan\u0131nda (mezarl\u0131k\/k\u00fclt alan\u0131) insan bi\u00e7imli 32 adet ta\u015f heykel, ta\u015f sunak, aslan ve ko\u00e7 fig\u00fcrleri ile 2,1 km boyunca dikilmi\u015f 552 adet balbal ta\u015f\u0131 yer al\u0131r. Arkeologlar bu alan\u0131n da y\u00fcksek r\u00fctbeli askerlere ve soylulara ait oldu\u011fu konusunda hemfikirler.<\/p>\n
Ayr\u0131ca Orhun Vadisinde bulunan Geyik Ta\u015f\u0131 An\u0131tlar\u0131 ve Deve Ta\u015f\u0131 Kare Kurgan\u0131 bronz \u00e7a\u011f\u0131na kadar uzanan dikkat \u00e7ekici bir an\u0131tt\u0131r. Bu an\u0131t, Orhun Vadisinde evrensel de\u011feri olan en geni\u015f tarihi ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel eserlerden biridir.<\/p>\n
Mogolistan gezimizde hemen hemen her yerde g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz bir di\u011fer ta\u015flar Balballard\u0131.<\/p>\n
Balballar, \u0130slam \u00f6ncesi T\u00fcrklerde mezarlar\u0131n veya kurganlar\u0131n etraf\u0131na dikilen mezar ta\u015flar\u0131d\u0131r. Bu balbal ta\u015flar\u0131 ki\u015finin \u00f6ld\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc d\u00fc\u015fmanlar\u0131 temsil etmesinin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra taziyeye gelen ki\u015filerin getirip dikti\u011fi ta\u015flar olarak da yorumlan\u0131yor.. \u00d6len ki\u015fi ne kadar \u00e7ok d\u00fc\u015fman \u00f6ld\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015fse balbal say\u0131s\u0131 o kadar fazlad\u0131r. \u00d6len ki\u015finin sa\u011f iken; g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fcn, cesaretinin, kahramanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n da bir simgesidir.<\/p>\n
Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131nda da balbal ad\u0131na bir\u00e7ok yerde rastlan\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. Balballar\u0131 ilk kullanan devletin \u0130skitler oldu\u011fu biliniyor. \u0130skitler\u2019 den sonra gelen bir\u00e7ok T\u00fcrk boyu da balballar\u0131 kullanmaya devam etmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n
B\u00f6lgede \u00d6ng\u00fct kurgan\u0131nda 552, Tonyuk kurgan\u0131nda 271 ve Bugut kurgan\u0131nda da 230 adet balbal var ve bunlar bilinen en \u00f6nemli balballard\u0131r. \u0130slam \u00f6ncesi d\u00f6nemde yayg\u0131n olan balballar, \u0130slam dininin kabul\u00fcnden sonra yerini mezar ta\u015flar\u0131na b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Ve Obolar\u2026. Hemen hemen Mo\u011folistan\u2019\u0131n her yerinde kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131k.<\/p>\n
Obo yapmak ve onu kutsamak k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc T\u00fcrk ve Mo\u011fol boylar\u0131nda olduk\u00e7a yayg\u0131nd\u0131r. Bunlar bozk\u0131rlarda, da\u011flarda, da\u011f ge\u00e7itlerinde veya yol g\u00fczergahlar\u0131nda ta\u015f y\u0131\u011f\u0131nlar\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck tepeciklerdir.<\/p>\n
Bu y\u0131\u011fma tepecikler obo, ovo veya oba gibi isimlerle an\u0131l\u0131rlar. Her boy kendine ait olan<\/p>\n
b\u00f6lgede bir obo yapar. Y\u0131l\u0131n de\u011fi\u015fik zamanlar\u0131nda obo etraf\u0131nda kurbanlar kesilir, adaklar adan\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Obolar\u0131n tepesine bez ba\u011flan\u0131r veya dal b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131r. \u00d6zellikle K\u0131rg\u0131z ve Kazak T\u00fcrk boylar\u0131 obolara b\u00fcy\u00fck sayg\u0131 duyarlar.<\/p>\n
Onlara g\u00f6re, obolar g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc kahramanlar\u0131n kurganlar\u0131d\u0131r. Baz\u0131 y\u00f6relerde obo yan\u0131na gelen T\u00fcrkler \u00fczerine bir ta\u015f daha atarak Tanr\u0131dan ve ata ruhlar\u0131ndan yolunu a\u00e7mas\u0131n\u0131 diler. Ben de her kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m obaya bir ta\u015f atarak dilek te bulundum.<\/p>\n
Oba k\u00fclt\u00fc zaman ve b\u00f6lgeye g\u00f6re anlam\u0131n\u0131 de\u011fi\u015ftirse bile kutsall\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan bir \u015fey kaybetmemektedir. Karakurum\u2019un g\u00fcneybat\u0131s\u0131nda Orhun Nehri k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan Karakurum Tepesi \u00fczerindeki devlet obosu olan ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k an\u0131t\u0131 her zaman ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131k. Ayn\u0131 zamanda da bu tepe Karakurum\u2019a bakan bir seyir teras\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Oboyu ziyaret edenler, onun etraf\u0131nda saat y\u00f6n\u00fcnde \u00fc\u00e7 defa d\u00f6n\u00fcp, ta\u015f atarak dilekte bulunuyorlar.<\/p>\n
Boyutlar\u0131 ve \u015fekli farkl\u0131 olsa da, obo k\u00fclt\u00fc \u00fclkemizin bir \u00e7ok y\u00f6resinde y\u00fcksek da\u011flarda ve yaylalarda mevcuttur. \u00d6zellikle yol g\u00fczergahlar\u0131na yap\u0131lan obolar, sisli havlarda yol ve y\u00f6n bulmak i\u00e7in Anadolu\u2019nun bir\u00e7ok y\u00f6resinde kullan\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Mo\u011folistan gezimizde hemen hemen her yerde kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u015eamanlar\u0131n kutsal sayd\u0131klar\u0131 \u015ealama ya da Salama diye adland\u0131rd\u0131klar\u0131 mekan.<\/p>\n
\u015eamanlar bu mekanlarda dua ederek dileklerini dile getiriyorlar..<\/p>\n
\u015ealamalar genelde y\u00fcksek yerlerde yap\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Mo\u011folistan’\u0131n ba\u015fkenti Ulaan Batuar’a 100 km uzakl\u0131kta \u00d6t\u00fcken topraklar\u0131ndaki \u0130nkut b\u00f6lgesindeki G\u00f6kt\u00fcrklere ait \u00d6ngut \u00e7ukur balballar\u0131n\u0131 da g\u00f6rd\u00fck.<\/p>\n
B\u00f6lgedeki 552 balbal yakla\u015f\u0131k 2 km uzunlu\u011fundaki bir hat \u00fczerinde bulunuyor.<\/p>\n
Yakla\u015f\u0131k 10 saatlik safari modundaki yorucu ama \u00e7ok az insan elinin de\u011fdi\u011fi Atalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n at ko\u015fturdu\u011fu topraklarda seyehat \u00e7ok g\u00fczel ve heyecan vericiydi.<\/p>\n
\u00c7ok g\u00fczel ve heyecan verici seyahatten sonra biz T\u00fcrklerin tarihteki ba\u015fkenti Karakurum’da yurta(\u00e7ad\u0131ra) vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda b\u00fct\u00fcn yorgunlu\u011fumuz gitti.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Yol bizi Tam\u0131r Irma\u011f\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131na getirdi.<\/p>\n
Tam\u0131r Irma\u011f\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda Taikhar Kayas\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n
Ta\u015fa kaz\u0131nm\u0131\u015f s\u00f6zler\u2026<\/p>\n
Silinmeyen izler\u2026<\/p>\n
Tam\u0131r (Ihtam\u0131r) Irma\u011f\u0131 Orhun Irma\u011f\u0131n\u0131n bat\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan ve Hangay da\u011flar\u0131ndan do\u011fan Tam\u0131r Irma\u011f\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7ok say\u0131da kolu bulunuyor.. Tam\u0131r Irma\u011f\u0131 da kuzeye do\u011fru akar ve Orhun Irma\u011f\u0131 ile birle\u015fir. Bu \u0131rma\u011f\u0131n \u00e7evresinde yer alan d\u00fczl\u00fck alanlarda hayvanc\u0131l\u0131k i\u00e7in son derece zengin bitki topluluklar\u0131 bulunur. Tam\u0131r \u0131rma\u011f\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7evresinde de \u00e7ok say\u0131da tarihi eser vard\u0131r. Kutsal say\u0131lan Taikhar Kayas\u0131 da Orhun vadisinde Karakurum\u2019un 140 km kuzeydo\u011fusunda, Arhangay eyaleti Ih Tamir b\u00f6lgesinde \u00d6t\u00fcken’in merkezi Tamir \u0131rma\u011f\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda yer al\u0131yor. Taihar \u00c7uluu yaz\u0131t\u0131 da deniyor.<\/p>\n
Kaya-Yaz\u0131t hakk\u0131nda bir\u00e7ok efsanenin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra, onu \u00f6zel k\u0131lan \u015fey ise \u00fczerine \u00e7izilen semboller, fig\u00fcrlerdir. 2\u2019nci G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk d\u00f6nemine ait ve 7\u2019nci y\u00fczy\u0131la ait oldu\u011fu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclen, runik harfli, yukar\u0131dan a\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f d\u00f6rt s\u00fctunlu G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk\u00e7e metinlerdir.<\/p>\n
Kutsal say\u0131lan bu an\u0131t kaya i\u00e7in s\u00f6ylenen baz\u0131 efsaneler de vard\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Efsaneye g\u00f6re, buradan yery\u00fcz\u00fcne \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p insanlara sald\u0131ran ejderhan\u0131n \u00fczerine bu kaya konularak \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131 engellenmi\u015ftir. Ba\u015fka bir efsaneye g\u00f6re de burada bulu\u015fan gen\u00e7 bir k\u0131z ve delikanl\u0131y\u0131 k\u0131skanan zengin biri gen\u00e7 k\u0131z\u0131 ka\u00e7\u0131r\u0131r. Ancak kurtulmak isteyen gen\u00e7 k\u0131z kendisini Tam\u0131r Irma\u011f\u0131n\u0131n sular\u0131na atarak g\u00f6zden kaybolur. Bulu\u015fma yerine gelen delikanl\u0131 g\u00fcnlerce bekler ve sevdi\u011fi gelmeyince bekleye bekleye ta\u015fa d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcr. Kutsal say\u0131lan bu kaya ziyaret\u00e7iler taraf\u0131ndan en az \u00fc\u00e7 kere tavaf edilir. Ger\u00e7ekte ilgin\u00e7 olan, ovan\u0131n ortas\u0131nda granit kayas\u0131ndan olu\u015fan yakla\u015f\u0131k 35 m y\u00fckseklikte bir kaya blokunun bulunmas\u0131d\u0131r. Bizimle birlikte seyahat eden Jeoloji Profes\u00f6r\u00fc Sadettin Korkmaz, Tam\u0131r Irma\u011f\u0131n\u0131n di\u011fer taraf\u0131nda bulunan tepenin de granitik kayalardan olu\u015ftu\u011funu, Muhtemelen Tam\u0131r Irma\u011f\u0131n\u0131n kayalar\u0131 a\u015f\u0131nd\u0131rmas\u0131 sonucu ortada kalan bu kayan\u0131n \u00e7evresi, ta\u015f\u0131nan \u00e7\u00f6kellere dolarak d\u00fcz ovaya d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fmesinden ibaret oldu\u011funu bize anlatt\u0131.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\u00c7e\u00e7erleg\u2019de Bugut Ta\u015f\u0131\/ Yaz\u0131t\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrk ad\u0131n\u0131n ilk yank\u0131lar\u0131ndan biri\u2026<\/p>\n
Mo\u011folistan’\u0131n Tsetserleg (\u00c7e\u00e7erleg -\u00c7i\u00e7ekli) \u015fehrindeki m\u00fczenin bah\u00e7esinde sergilenen yaz\u0131t bu topraklarda bulunan en eski yaz\u0131t olma \u00f6zelli\u011fine sahip.<\/p>\n
1956 y\u0131l\u0131nda Bugut da\u011f\u0131 yak\u0131nlar\u0131ndaki bir kurganda bulunmu\u015ftur. Yaz\u0131t\u0131n y\u00fcksekli\u011fi 198 cm olup, 47 cm uzunlu\u011funda bir kaplumba\u011fa kaidenin \u00fczerine oturmaktad\u0131r. Kurganda 230 kadar da balbal bulunmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n
Bumin Ka\u011fan\u2019\u0131n 3\u2019nc\u00fc o\u011flu 1. G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk Devleti ka\u011fan\u0131 Taspar (Tarpaz) Ka\u011fan\u0131n \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden hemen sonra O\u2019nun ad\u0131na 580 , 581 veya 582 y\u0131l\u0131nda dikildi\u011fi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclmektedir.<\/p>\n
\u00c7ocuk emziren Kurt fig\u00fcr\u00fc olan yaz\u0131t\u0131n \u00fc\u00e7 y\u00fcz\u00fc, T\u00fcrklerin Uygur alfabesinden \u00f6nce kullan\u0131lan So\u011fut ve Brahmi alfabesi ile yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f metinlerle kapl\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Bugut Yaz\u0131t\u0131 \u201cT\u00fcrk\u201d ad\u0131n\u0131n ge\u00e7ti\u011fi en eski yaz\u0131l\u0131 kaynakt\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Mo\u011folistan’\u0131n g\u00fcney bat\u0131s\u0131nda ba\u015fkent Ulaan Batuar’a 450 km uzakl\u0131kta Orhun vadisindeki Bat\u00f6lzii’de bulunan yakla\u015f\u0131k4-5 bin y\u0131ll\u0131k oldu\u011fu tahmin edilen Temen\u00e7ulu mezar ta\u015flar\u0131n\u0131 da g\u00f6rd\u00fck.. Arkeologlar ta\u015flar \u00fczerindeki geyik resimlerinin, bu mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131n \u0130skitler’e ait oldu\u011fu konusunda g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f belirtiyorlar..<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Ama bu yolculu\u011fun en derin an\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n
Ne bir yaz\u0131tt\u0131\u2026 ne bir \u015fehir\u2026Bir geceydi.<\/p>\n
Bozk\u0131r\u0131n ortas\u0131nda bir yurt\u2026Ve bir Kam.<\/p>\n
\u0130\u00e7eri girdik. Duman vard\u0131\u2026 koku vard\u0131\u2026 sessizlik vard\u0131.<\/p>\n
Ve g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeyen bir \u015fey daha: ge\u00e7mi\u015f.<\/p>\n
Kar\u015f\u0131mda bir Kam oturuyordu.<\/p>\n
Diz \u00e7\u00f6kt\u00fcm.<\/p>\n
Hi\u00e7 konu\u015fmadan ba\u015flad\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n
S\u00f6zleri anla\u015f\u0131lmasa da anlam\u0131 hissediliyordu.<\/p>\n
Bir rit\u00fcel\u2026 bir \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u2026 bir ar\u0131nma\u2026<\/p>\n
Ve sonra\u2026Beni k\u00f6t\u00fc ruhlardan ar\u0131nd\u0131rd\u0131.<\/p>\n
Sanki sadece ben de\u011fil\u2026<\/p>\n
\u0130\u00e7imde ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131m yorgunluk, uzakl\u0131k, kopu\u015f da temizlendi.<\/p>\n
Sonra bir \u015fey s\u00f6yledi:<\/p>\n
\u201cAtalar\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 unutmad\u0131n\u0131z\u2026<\/p>\n
G\u00f6k Tanr\u0131 inanc\u0131\u2019y\u0131 hat\u0131rlayarak buraya geldiniz\u2026\u201d<\/p>\n
Bu bir te\u015fekk\u00fcrd\u00fc.Ama ard\u0131ndan bir \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131 geldi:\u201cDaha s\u0131k gelin.\u201d<\/p>\n
Ve sonra\u2026 bir uyar\u0131:<\/p>\n
\u201cCengiz Han demeyin\u2026O bir \u00fcnvand\u0131r. As\u0131l ad\u0131 Timu\u00e7in\u2019dir.\u201d<\/p>\n
O an \u015funu anlad\u0131m:<\/p>\n
Bu topraklarda sadece tarih de\u011fil\u2026 isimler bile kutsald\u0131r.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Ve en sonunda\u2026<\/p>\n
\u00d6t\u00fcken.<\/p>\n
Orada durduk.<\/p>\n
R\u00fczg\u00e2r esti\u2026<\/p>\n
Ama o r\u00fczg\u00e2r s\u0131radan de\u011fildi.<\/p>\n
Ge\u00e7mi\u015f konu\u015fuyordu.<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrklerin Orta Asya\u2019daki kutsal ba\u015fkenti olan \u00d6t\u00fcken, T\u00fcrklerin yery\u00fcz\u00fcnde ilk var oldu\u011fu ve oradan D\u00fcnya\u2019ya yay\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerin ad\u0131 olarak da kabul ediliyor. Ba\u015fta B\u00fcy\u00fck Hun Devleti olmak \u00fczere G\u00f6kt\u00fcrkler, Uygurlar ve K\u0131rg\u0131zlar\u0131n merkezi hep \u00d6t\u00fcken ve \u00d6t\u00fcken Orman\u0131 olmu\u015ftur. Kutsall\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n nedeni \u00d6t\u00fcken Orman\u0131, adeta d\u0131\u015far\u0131daki k\u00f6t\u00fcl\u00fcklere ve d\u00fc\u015fmana kar\u015f\u0131 koruyucu bir b\u00f6lge olmas\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n
\u00d6t\u00fcken, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz Mo\u011folistan\u2019\u0131n Arhangay Eyaleti ve \u00d6v\u00f6rhangay ili s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde yer alan bir b\u00f6lge olarak kabul ediliyor. Tarih\u00e7i Prof. Dr. Ahmet Ta\u015fa\u011f\u0131l, bu b\u00f6lgenin Hangay Da\u011flar\u0131\u2019n\u0131n arkas\u0131ndaki yer anlam\u0131na geldi\u011fini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. \u201cB\u00fct\u00fcn Mo\u011folistan i\u00e7inde en ya\u015fanabilir, en verimli veya en sulu topraklara, bol otlara sahip yani hayvanc\u0131 topluluklar\u0131n ya\u015fayaca\u011f\u0131 alan Arhangay eyaleti yani \u00d6t\u00fcken. O b\u00f6lgede T\u00fcrklere ait binlerce geyikli resim, Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131, kerek surlar, Hoyt Tam\u0131r Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131, kurganlar bulunuyor.<\/p>\n
Bu y\u00fczden T\u00fcrklerin tarihi, ilk ba\u015fkenti diyoruz. Gerek T\u00fcrk kaynaklar\u0131nda, yaz\u0131tlar\u0131nda gerekse \u00c7in kaynaklar\u0131nda anlat\u0131lan belge ve bilgilerle bug\u00fcnk\u00fc bizim bildi\u011fimiz \u00d6t\u00fcken\u2019in yeri ayn\u0131. Bug\u00fcn haritaya bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z zaman \u00d6t\u00fcken\u2019i a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 yukar\u0131 belirleyebiliyoruz. Zaten b\u00f6lgedeki di\u011fer T\u00fcrk \u015fehirleri; Ordu-Bal\u0131k, Baybal\u0131k, Karabalgasun, Kutluk Ka\u011fan\u2019\u0131n kurgan\u0131n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu yer, geyikli ta\u015f, Bayan \u00c7or\u2019un Yaz\u0131t\u0131 yine ayn\u0131 b\u00f6lgede yer al\u0131yor<\/p>\n
Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131nda da \u00d6t\u00fcken\u2019in bulundu\u011fu b\u00f6lgenin \u00f6nemi anlat\u0131l\u0131yor. Da\u011f\u0131n \u00e7ukurunda kurulmu\u015f bir \u015fehir olan ve g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde \u00d6t\u00fcken\u2019in ortas\u0131nda yer alan \u00c7i\u00e7eklik (\u00c7e\u00e7erleg) \u015fehri ve \u00e7evresi, ya\u015famaya uygun son derece elveri\u015fli bir aland\u0131r.<\/p>\n
K\u0131saca \u00f6zetlersek; \u00d6t\u00fcken k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir alan de\u011fil, olduk\u00e7a geni\u015f, iklim bak\u0131m\u0131ndan uygun, Orhun ve Tamir \u0131rmaklar\u0131n\u0131 i\u00e7ine alan ya\u015fanabilir bir b\u00f6lgenin ad\u0131d\u0131r<\/p>\n
\u00d6t\u00fcken\u2026 Ad\u0131n\u0131 y\u0131llarca i\u00e7imde ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131m, hayalimde b\u00fcy\u00fctt\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm o kutsal yurt. O bozk\u0131rlara ad\u0131m att\u0131\u011f\u0131m an i\u00e7imde tarif edemedi\u011fim bir duygu kabard\u0131. At bindim, r\u00fczg\u00e2r\u0131 y\u00fcz\u00fcmde hissettim. \u201c\u00d6t\u00fcken\u2026 \u00d6t\u00fcken\u2026\u201d diye y\u0131llard\u0131r i\u00e7imde yank\u0131lanan o isim art\u0131k ger\u00e7ekti. Eminim ki o topraklarda atam Mete Han da at ko\u015fturmu\u015ftu,idol\u00fcm K\u00fcr\u015fad da\u2026 Ayn\u0131 g\u00f6\u011f\u00fcn alt\u0131nda, ayn\u0131 r\u00fczg\u00e2r\u0131n i\u00e7inde. O duyguyu anlatamam\u2026 ya\u015famak gerek.<\/p>\n
Bozk\u0131r\u0131n ortas\u0131nda bir yer vard\u0131\u2026 Ad\u0131 sadece bir co\u011frafya de\u011fildi. Ad\u0131, hat\u0131rad\u0131r. Ad\u0131, k\u00f6kt\u00fcr.O yer \u00d6t\u00fcken\u2019dir.<\/p>\n
Ben o topraklar\u0131 y\u0131llarca kitaplardan tan\u0131d\u0131m. Orhun Irma\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n ad\u0131n\u0131 okudum, Orhun Yaz\u0131tlar\u0131\u2019n\u0131 sat\u0131rlarda g\u00f6rd\u00fcm. Ama insan bazen bilir ki; baz\u0131 \u015feyler okunarak de\u011fil, ancak hissedilerek anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Ve bir g\u00fcn\u2026 o bozk\u0131ra ayak bast\u0131m.<\/p>\n
U\u00e7suz bucaks\u0131z d\u00fczl\u00fckler\u2026 g\u00f6kle yerin birbirine kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir sonsuzluk\u2026 R\u00fczg\u00e2r\u0131n sesi bile ba\u015fka. Sanki sadece esmez; konu\u015fur. Sanki binlerce y\u0131l \u00f6ncesinden haber ta\u015f\u0131r.\u0130\u015fte o an anl\u0131yorsun: Buras\u0131 s\u0131radan bir yer de\u011fil. Buras\u0131, bir milletin do\u011fdu\u011fu yer.<\/p>\n
Karakurum ve Karabalgasun\u2026<\/p>\n
Devlet kuran akl\u0131n, \u015fehir kuran iradenin izleri\u2026<\/p>\n
Ziyaretimizin \u00f6nemli duraklar\u0131ndan biri de; T\u00fcrklerin tarihte kurduklar\u0131 ilk \u015fehir \u00f6zelli\u011fi ta\u015f\u0131yan,751 y\u0131l\u0131nda Uygur T\u00fcrklerinin ba\u015fkenti olmu\u015f tarihi Ordu-Bal\u0131k (Karabalgasun) \u015fehriydi. Mo\u011folistan’\u0131n kuzey bat\u0131s\u0131nda ba\u015fkent Ulaan Batuar’a 400 km uzakl\u0131kta, Karakurum\u2019un yakla\u015f\u0131k 35 km kuzey-kuzeybat\u0131s\u0131nda Arhangay Aymag b\u00f6lgesinde Orhun Nehrinin bat\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda 1398 m rak\u0131ml\u0131 bir ova \u00fczerinde yer al\u0131r. Ordu-Bal\u0131k, saray\/ordu anlam\u0131nda olup, kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 Mo\u011folcada \u201ckara \u015fehir\u201d anlam\u0131na gelen Kharbalgas olarak da bilinir. \u015eehir 751-840 y\u0131llar\u0131nda ticaret merkezi olmu\u015f, kale duvarlar\u0131 ve onu \u00e7evreleyen su kanallar\u0131, g\u00f6zetleme kuleleri, i\u00e7 kale ve saray\u0131yla Orhun Vadisinin en geli\u015fmi\u015f \u015fehirlerinden biriydi. Arap seyyahlar\u0131n ” \u015eehirlerin Kral\u0131” olarak tabir ettikleri \u015fehri 850’li y\u0131llarda K\u0131rg\u0131zlar yakt\u0131 y\u0131kt\u0131.Bug\u00fcn \u015fehirden geriye sadece kum y\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 surlar ve tepeler kalm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
Orda Bal\u0131k’ta T\u00fcrklerin ilk kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131 Runik harfleri ile yaz\u0131lan yaz\u0131tlar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc Rusya’ya g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f m\u00fczeye konulmu\u015f. Bu yaz\u0131tlar\u0131n Mo\u011folistan\u2019da kalabilen par\u00e7alar\u0131n\u0131 da sergilendi\u011fi Karakurum M\u00fczesi’nde g\u00f6rd\u00fck.<\/p>\n
Bir sonraki dura\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Karakurum \u015fehriydi. Ulanbatur\u2019a uzakl\u0131\u011f\u0131 360 km olan Karakurum, Mo\u011folistan\u2019\u0131n g\u00fcneybat\u0131s\u0131ndaki \u00d6v\u00f6rkhangay eyaletindeki Harhorin kenti yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda bulunan antik bir \u015fehirdir. Karakurum bir s\u00fcre de Uygurlara ba\u015fkentlik yapt\u0131. Daha sonra Harzem\u015fahlar\u2019\u0131n egemenli\u011fine girdi. 1218\/19 y\u0131llar\u0131nda Cengiz Han kenti ele ge\u00e7irip, 1220\u2019de Mo\u011fol Devletine ba\u015fkent yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Orhun K\u00fclt\u00fcrel Do\u011fa Vadisi\u2019nin D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesindeki yerlerden biri de Erdene Zuu Manast\u0131r\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Manast\u0131r, Harhorin ili yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda bulunan eski Mo\u011fol ba\u015fkenti Karakurum\u2019dad\u0131r<\/p>\n
Erdene Zuu Manast\u0131r\u0131 1585\u2019te Abtay Han taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Mo\u011folistan\u2019a Tibet Budizmi\u2019nin yay\u0131lma noktas\u0131d\u0131r. Ta\u015ftan in\u015fa edilmi\u015f olup, 102 tap\u0131nak heykelci\u011fiyle \u00e7evrilidir. Bu tap\u0131nak manast\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n duvarlar\u0131nda \u00e7e\u015fitli desenler vard\u0131r, \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131 \u00c7in tarz\u0131 ye\u015fil kiremitlerle kaplanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. 1990\u2019da Mo\u011folistan\u2019da kom\u00fcnizmin \u00e7\u00f6k\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyle birlikte; yeniden ibadete a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131 ve Budist rahipler yeti\u015fmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. Bug\u00fcn Erdene Zuu etkin bir Budist manast\u0131r\u0131 olmakla birlikte, ayn\u0131 zamanda gezginler i\u00e7in de bir m\u00fczedir<\/p>\n
Ziyaret etti\u011fimiz bir di\u011fer Budist tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 da 1809\u2019da kurulan Ulanbatur\u2019daki Gandan Manast\u0131r\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n
1939-1944 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Sovyet y\u00f6netimi taraf\u0131ndan kapat\u0131ld\u0131. 1944-1989 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda \u00fclkenin tek aktif manast\u0131r\u0131 olup, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde ise Mo\u011folistan\u2019da Budizm\u2019in merkezi konumundad\u0131r. Manast\u0131r gezginler taraf\u0131ndan Ulanbatur\u2019un en \u00e7ok ziyaret edilen yerleri aras\u0131ndad\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Mo\u011folistan gezi grubumuzda yer alan Jeoloji Profes\u00f6r\u00fc Sadettin Korkmaz, Co\u011frafya profes\u00f6rleri Adem Sezer ve Ali Meydan\u2019\u0131n co\u011frafya ve toprak yap\u0131s\u0131yla ilgili verdi\u011fi bilgiler gezimizi daha da anlaml\u0131 k\u0131ld\u0131.<\/p>\n
Mo\u011folistan\u2019da ba\u015fta Ulanbatur\u2019da olmak \u00fczere 20 kadar b\u00fcy\u00fck m\u00fcze var.<\/p>\n
Bunlardan en \u00f6nemlisi bizim de ziyaret etti\u011fimiz ba\u015fkentte bulunan Cengiz Han M\u00fczesi ve Do\u011fa Tarihi M\u00fczesidir. Cengiz Han M\u00fczesin\u2019deki Mutan (Mete Han) heykeli muhte\u015femdi.<\/p>\n
Do\u011fa Tarihi m\u00fczesinde de Mo\u011folistan\u2019da bulunan d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck dinozor fosilleri sergileniyor.<\/p>\n
Gezimizde bu iki b\u00fcy\u00fck m\u00fczenin d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, Karakurum, \u00c7e\u00e7erleg (\u00c7i\u00e7ekli), Orhun An\u0131tlar\u0131 ve Bilge Tonyukuk m\u00fczelerini de gezdik.<\/p>\n
M\u00fczelerde ba\u015fta Hunlar olmak \u00fczere G\u00f6kt\u00fcrkler, Uygurlar, Karahanl\u0131lar ve Mo\u011follara ait bir\u00e7ok tarihi belge, e\u015fya, heykel ve benzeri eserleri g\u00f6r\u00fcnce atalar\u0131m\u0131zla bir kez daha gurur duydum.<\/p>\n
Bu yolculuk sadece ta\u015flar\u0131 g\u00f6rmek de\u011fildi.<\/p>\n
\u0130nsan\u0131 en \u00e7ok sarsan \u015fey, bazen k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck anlar olur.<\/p>\n
Konaklad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u00e7ad\u0131r kamp\u0131n\u0131n y\u00f6neticisi Mo\u011fol kad\u0131n\u0131n\u0131n bizleri u\u011furlarken arabalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n tekerine s\u00fct serpmesi\u2026<\/p>\n
Bir kemik par\u00e7as\u0131yla \u201cyolun a\u00e7\u0131k olsun\u201d denmesi ile kendi \u00f6z k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcm\u00fc g\u00f6rd\u00fcm.\u2026<\/p>\n
Anlad\u0131m ki:<\/p>\n
Zaman de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015f\u2026 Co\u011frafyalar de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015f\u2026 mesafeler artm\u0131\u015f\u2026<\/p>\n
Ama ruh ayn\u0131 kalm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Bu bir gezi de\u011fildi. Bu, Bir d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc.<\/p>\n
Bu gezide; Orta Asya bozk\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131n insana sonsuzluk hissi veren co\u011frafyas\u0131nda<\/p>\n
atalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n bir\u00e7ok rit\u00fcelini yap\u0131p, Orhun ve Tam\u0131r \u0131rmaklar\u0131n\u0131n serin sular\u0131nda y\u00fczd\u00fck, \u00d6t\u00fcken\u2019in havas\u0131n\u0131 soluduk, r\u00fczgarlar\u0131n ge\u00e7mi\u015fi anlatan sesini dinledik. Orhun nehrinin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda kurulmu\u015f obalar\u0131 ziyaret ettik, taze haz\u0131rlad\u0131klar\u0131 k\u0131m\u0131zlardan alarak gezi boyunca i\u00e7tik, Yemek yedi\u011fimiz yerlerde sofram\u0131zda mutlaka at eti oluyordu ve ben yiyebildi\u011fim kadar yedim.<\/p>\n
Bilge Ka\u011fan\u2019a K\u00fcl Tigin\u2019e ve Bilge Tonyukuk\u2019a sar\u0131larak ge\u00e7mi\u015ften g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze kurdu\u011fumuz ba\u011flar\u0131, gelecek ku\u015faklara aktarmak g\u00f6revimi de yapm\u0131\u015f oldum.<\/p>\n
Tarihin derinliklerinden bizlere seslenen K\u00fcl Tigin, Bilge Ka\u011fan ve Bilge Tonyukuk\u2019un \u00f6\u011f\u00fctlerine kulak verdi\u011fimiz s\u00fcrece, T\u00fcrk Milleti ve T\u00fcrk Devleti d\u00fcnya durduk\u00e7a ilelebet var olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131n bilincine vard\u0131k.<\/p>\n
Tarihe damga vuran Mete Han\u2019dan ba\u015flayan, Bilge Ka\u011fan ile y\u00fckselen, Alparslan ile Anadolu\u2019ya tekrar gelen ve Mustafa Kemal Atat\u00fcrk ile yeniden dirilen bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u2026Ba\u015f\u0131na dokunmakt\u0131.<\/p>\n
Ve d\u00f6nerken art\u0131k biliyorduk:<\/p>\n
O ta\u015flar durduk\u00e7a\u2026<\/p>\n
O s\u00f6zler ya\u015fad\u0131k\u00e7a\u2026<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrk Milleti var olmaya devam edecektir.<\/p>\n
Ne Mutlu T\u00fcrk\u00fcm Diyene.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Bu yolculuk benim i\u00e7in s\u0131radan bir gezi de\u011fildi. Atalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n izini s\u00fcrmek, onlar\u0131n bast\u0131\u011f\u0131 topraklara basmak, nefes ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 bozk\u0131rlarda nefes almak demekti.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":195,"featured_media":19658,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[1040,3337,1493,1024,324,1189],"yoast_head":"\n